Canggu Bali - and why I love it

Who has been to Bali? I'm not sure of the statistics, but a quick google tells me that in 2014 over 600,000 Aussies touched down on the Island of the Gods. 

I've been to Bali four times over 13 years. Once when I was 12 years old, and we walked the rice paddy-lined street between Legian and Kuta. Another for our honeymoon, staying in Tuban. The next with friends, staying in a Seminyak villa, Ubud and Sanur with our nearly one-year-old daughter. And the last time, with our two children, staying at a surf resort in Canggu, Menjangan National Park and Legian. We also took a look at Medewi on the way up to Menjangan and like the look of that area.

Of all those places, Canggu has been my favourite. I see Canggu as the expat area where you have activity but nothing like the crazy business of Seminyak and Legian, just a few minutes away. We stayed inland, but with free bicycle hire, we were easily able to get to all the nearby beaches (some which were deserted on our visit bar fisherman's boats and huts), Echo Beach cafes, and peddle our way around the winding roads through rice paddies. 

The vibe at Echo Beach is chilled and relaxed. A few restaurants and bars line the beachfront, with a few beanbags brought out for sunset drinks on the beach. I only ever saw the one hawker there, who came and asked, but then left as quickly as he appeared if we didn't want company. Sometimes we had a chat with him. I can imagine living here, and coming down here in the afternoons - surfing and having a sunset beer.

The road down to the beach is dotted with shops, warungs and restaurants. But there is still a lot of space between each, rice paddies reaching up towards to road. There are cars, taxis and motorbikes, but with a steady mind, I felt safe enough to cycle around on a loan bike. It is nowhere near as busy as the main tourist area.

Batu Bolong (Canggu) beach is even quieter still. In the mornings, after our morning surf, we would head to a warung for a coconut water. A few tables and the shack are behind the beach carpark, with a free cold outdoor shower for patrons. Great for washing the sand off after being crashed around in the waves. There is a surfboard rental place, temple and not much else. Away from the beachfront a few metres is the appropriately named Old Mans. We stopped here for a Bintang, watching expats working, checking out surf and arriving with friends on mopeds. Again, I thought aloud how great a lifestyle this looks - I could live here. 

After messing around in white wash and small waves, our surf group asked to go to better waves. A short walk around the front of the temple took us to Old Mans surf break. As a newbie surfer in 6-8 foot (Bali standard) waves, it was scary. I'm thankful I only lost one fin in the shore break and walked out just a bit shaky - not hurt. But next time I will be pushier with my surf guide and say I'm not confident going out in waves that big.

Canggu does it for me - surf, relaxed, beautiful beaches, close to everything but quieter. Kuta, in Lombok also gives me this feeling, but that's a different story. 

Where is your favourite Bali location?

What's happening with camping?

Caravan, camper trailer or tent?

We stayed at the caravan park in Port Elliot for the October long weekend. It got me thinking. Camping, and they way we do it, has changed in my lifetime. When I was young, I remember tents being the norm. Nowadays, caravans and camper trailers are the norms. Tents are few and far between. 

Why is that?

Are we getting snobby? Can we not afford hotels and holiday houses but still want comfort? Do we hate camping out in tents now? Are we trying to keep up with the Jones'? Or is it that prices are rising, and people that would normally get a holiday house or stay in a hotel are being pushed out of that market. At $75 plus a night for a grass site over a holiday period, consider the cost of a holiday home - maybe that is the case. All prices are rising. 

I love to rough it - or more correctly, I used to. My idea of real camping is packing the basics and heading to nature. No gourmet meals, sometimes not even chairs to sit on. A sleeping mat - ha, only when required. I would pack a salad, chickpeas, baked beans, sandwich stuff (gluten free at the moment - grr). No sauces or herbs and flavourings, keep it plain. But I haven't done this in years. Hubby likes to eat yummy stuff. I don't blame him, most people do.  

We have had a camper trailer for about five years but are now nearing the (nearly inevitable) debate of upgrading to a caravan or selling it. It doesn't get that much use, and we figure for the $ we could sell it for, we could pay for cabins when we want to go to a caravan park. And I do love a caravan park holiday with kids. 

It's common to find in caravan parks...
Patchy prickly lawned sites (if they have grass sites)
Boozy holidaymakers are drinking first thing in the morning or getting rowdy after dark
Toilets that need a key or code. 
Kids waking before the crack of dawn (normally mine)

But you also find...
kids having fun with new friends
lots of relaxing
not needing to lock up your tent
and an overwhelming strange sense of 'everything is good' and letting your children out of your sight

You don't often get one without the other - in peak season at least. Perhaps this is a discussion for around the campfire?

Just out of interest, who remembers paying $20-25 a night for sites? I do. 

Me, five kids and my dad - over 500km away. A trip to the Grampians.

Venus Baths

In my research with Google Maps, I work out it’s going to be just over five hours drive. 469.5km. Add the breaks in, and we have a whole day. I’m still not sure whether I’m crazy or not. For one, I don’t particularly like driving long distances. Second, I’m taking three kids with me - alone. Hmm. 

Where am I going? Wartook, at the Grampians. It's about 40 minutes the other side of Horsham (coming from Adelaide). My dad has property over there, and he is always asking us to go. Hubby can't come due to work, so I hold my tongue the right way and hope for the best. Three kids in my car and me. It will be interesting.

View from cabins at Happy Wanderer Holiday Resort

The Happy Wanderer Holiday Resort could have had potential some years ago. Now it is run down. The views from the log cabins are beautiful. One afternoon I wander over and am stopped in my tracks by the view in front of me. Grassy plains lead my eye to the soaring mountain range hiding the horizon. I can imagine sitting on the deck, watching kangaroos graze, as the sun goes down. But alas, not tonight. I hear ‘mum, excavate with me. Nobody wants to play with me.’

Happy Wanderer Holiday Resort

Halls Gap is just 30km away. The slow drive through the tree-canopied mountains is easy. The inconvenience of having to keep an eye (or two) on the road (as I am the driver) instead of the forest of trees that keep enticing me with their beauty is slightly annoying. I also smile at the quirky tree growth (after the monster bush fires about a year ago) that covers the trunk of each tree like a hairy bear. Little sprouts of leaves cover each trunk from close to the ground up to the highest limbs.

Halls Gap

The town of Halls Gap itself is like a setting out of a movie. On one side of the main road is the caravan parks and playground, hemmed in by the towering rock face behind. The other has, among other small buildings and stores, a cute collection of shops bordering a shaded lawn area. Umbrellas and picnic tables are full with latte-sipping hikers. We walk the porch that runs the length of the shops, browsing the souvenirs, crystals and fortunately, missing the lolly shop then head over to the playground. I resist the urge to get coffee - just.

After a recommendation by the Visitor Centre as to where we could go with five kids aged 4-13-years-old, we walk to Venus Baths. An easy 2km return walks to half a dozen rock pools of varying sizes and depths where the children jump and slide and get wet. Me too. It was worth listening to the whine from some of the kids on the walk up - the kids didn't want to leave. It also means I don't lie, saying 'it will be worth it' to keep the kids going on the way up - seeing as I'd never visited before. 

Venus Baths

I carefully mention to my dad that next time we come over to the Grampians I'd like to stay in Halls Gap - even though it's not near his property. The caravan parks look nice, there is a big playground at the public park in front for the kids, and multiple hikes begin at the foot of the mountain rock face. I can hike without having to drive anywhere. And now the kids know about these very fun rock pools to slip, splish and splash about in.

Venus Baths

So, you ask, how did the trip go? Really well. The kids entertained each other, we didn't lose anyone, and I kept my sanity with the drive there and back. Even though we had a 1.5-hour wait in Bordertown for my dad who was running late (a normal occurrence).

Did I enjoy it? Hmm. I loved the exploring but was happy to escape kids (yes, even mine) when I got home. 

Would I do it again? Yes. But not to Wartook. Halls Gap is my Grampians spot. 

Walking on Grandpa's property

Secret weapon? iPads for the car. Cousins for play. Lots of food. No food with artificial colours or too much sugar - especially in the car. 

The art of being in nature - on a multi day hike.

I'm  prepping to go on a hike with my Dad, nephew and niece in December. The Great Ocean Walk. It's exciting. I've only done one multi-day hike before, the Overland Track in Tasmania. I hiked that with my Dad also.

I've never tasted water so good (from the running streams).

There were times when I wondered what I was doing. But then the track would turn a corner, or reach the top of an ascent, and I would stand in awe. My jaw would drop, quite literally. And I'd hear myself say out loud, 'Wow, this is amazing. I love this.'

Hiking luxury, the boardwalks.

Best bits
Walking over the mountain tops on the boarded track, I had to resist singing 'the hills are alive'. I imagined the bush-covered mountain tops to look like giant hairy bums if there were such a thing. 

At the end of the day, I loved sitting down and chatting with people. I'm a people person. I appreciated the quiet and small chatter with Dad during the day but loved gathering for stories at night.

Exploring the diversity of one place over time kept my curious nature at bay. My surrounds were constantly changing from wet forest to hardy bushland, to mountain tops - all in one day.

The treat meal at the end of the trip. Everyone needs to splash out, they deserve it. 

The start of the tree roots - they only got bigger.

Sucky bits
Day one saw us 'stuck' with a large group of two families with loud kids. The kids did nothing wrong, but we didn't want to be hiking and sleeping with them for the rest of the track. So next day we hiked two days in one. By the end of the day, when we had to pick our feet up over a forest of tree roots, we wondered whether we had done the right thing. But we made it. 

Ever tried to haul yourself up a near vertical wall with a 20kg bag on your back (and camera bag clipped to the front of me)? That happened on day one. We did have a chain to hold onto, and some step holds, but it was steep. I'd hate to think what would happen if I lost my grip. 

Having to carry all rubbish off the track. All rubbish - including the toilet paper. 

I was ultra eager to have a long hot shower, after having no shower for five days. Smelly belly and more. I did have wipe downs but couldn't bring myself to splash about in the near freezing water.

I came out of forest and saw this amazing view. Speechless. And not because I'd just pushed myself up a hill. 

Verdict
Many people say that nature is grounding, and it's the best place to let yourself just be. To find yourself. To nurture yourself. To love yourself. Well, I guess in a semi-torturous way, multi-day hikes do just that. 

And there is the bonus of getting fit while getting great photos.

Bring it on! I want to do more. 

Optional hikes up mountains are worth it. 

Multi-day hikes I've done...
Inca Trail, Peru
Mount Kinabalu, Sabah
Overland Track, Australia

Where to next? Would love your thoughts. 

Treat meal after the hike. Yum. 

Kuta Lombok or Kuta Bali?

'We are going to Kuta.' 'Oh, that's crazy and busy, and so touristy,' they reply. 

'No, Kuta in Lombok. I think it will be a bit different. People say it reminds them of Bali ten years ago.' 

They reply 'Oh, I've never heard of it. Where is that?'

Each morning we wake and do yoga. A purpose-built deck on the beach means we look out to a calm bay, complete with bobbing fishing boats and lone SUP'er heading out to the break out the back. The beach is quiet (all except one morning when conference delegates thought loud dance music would be appropriate to blast out of speakers at 7 am) except for the thunder of waves crashing beyond the bay. Swell is big. I've never been able to do yoga for more than 45 minutes, but these one and half hour sessions are easy. 

We hire a moped for $10 a day and go scootering. I wouldn't dream of doing this in Bali, but the roads look calm and safe here - as long as you keep an eye out for potholes. A tour down the main street takes about one minute. We slow down for buffalo, dogs sniffing and wandering old men. There are a few surfers chatting and locals laze in the shade. Children play in the puddles while one old man has a quick wash roadside. 

The restaurants and shops are deserted. And there is no 'lady, come here, see this' or 'Psst, you want? Just look.' Shop owners may smile, throw something your way, but don't persist if I decline.

There are a couple of side roads - most leading out of town. They are lined with stores, surf schools, guest houses and more restaurants. But all are empty on our visit out of season in February. 

And that's how it stays for the rest of the trip. Near-deserted. Each night the restaurants and beachside pop-up bars would take it in turns to entertain the tourists that are staying around Kuta. One bar per night would be 'the place'. 

Near-deserted white sand beaches line the southern coast around Kuta. They look like the beaches I dream of - lush vegetation bordering the white sand that leads to water that is clear and turquoise colour. Sometimes we find a little rubbish floating about, but nowhere near the amount we swim through in Bali. 

After discovering beaches for two days my moped we decide to hire a guide, boat, and boards and head out for a surf at Gerupuk. The break we go to is called Insides, in the middle of a bay this break comes from seemingly nowhere. 

The surf guides family being amused by Ben in his home.

It must be one of the easiest surf sessions I have had in my life. I catch a long wave, and then instead of an arm breaking battle to get out the back again, I have a quick and gentle paddle just outside the reef break. I'm back in the lineup minutes later. I catch waves that reform with no concern for the hard paddle that normally goes with it. The locals have fun with us, showing us tricks that keep them entertained on these smaller waves.

Back at the Novotel, for now, the only resort on the beachfront, we are met with hawkers. But instead of sell, sell, sell, they try the sell, then sit and chat. Their children are playful and muck around with us. I try and teach them sand-angels. We book our driver to Sengiggi through one of the ladies - her husband. It's a nice end to the day after adventuring, chatting with our new 'friends'.

A 25-minute flight to Lombok. Is it worth it? You bet. If you want to see somewhere different, less touristy (but not too off the beaten track), stunning white sand beaches, and good surf - head to Kuta in Lombok. Nearly Bali - but better.

Z Ward with Adelaide Haunted Horizons

Believe in ghosts? Doesn't matter - Adelaide Haunted Horizons' tours are fun for everyone. It's a Saturday night with a difference. Check them out. www.adelaidehauntedhorizons.com.au

I photographed in Z Ward at Glenside (criminally insane ward) for them but did a recce at Old Tailem Town about an hour from an Adelaide a few weeks prior. The stories told, the ambience, the intrigue of not knowing what lies beyond the torchlight. It all leads to me jumping at someone whispering 'boo' while I'm standing up the back of the group in a shop. Honestly, I thought it is whispered in my left ear, the ear that has nobody standing next to it - but obviously not, when the guys next to me apologised. I could swear I felt the air push onto my ear - but I guess that is my mind playing tricks on me. 

Do I believe in ghosts now? Not sure. I can't say until I experience it. Would I go on a tour again? Definitely. It is so much fun, scaring myself in the dark while listening to stories that make me squirm. 

Why is travel so addictive?

I had my first overseas holiday in 2012 - with my mum, cousin and Aunty. We went to Bali and stayed in Legian. A very different Bali to the country Aussies visit now. 

I then lived in Brazil for a year. Then went on an around the world six-week trip. Then lived in various parts of Europe for over a year. I've also had lots of holidays to exotic destinations over the years. Yes, I've spent lots of money on travel. But what cost can you put on the experience, cultural learning and fun? 

Travel is something that will last a lifetime, unlike the newest iPhone or TV. I'm happy to go without some 'luxuries' to save my money for travel. I'll even trade presents for a trip. Any day (or year). 

What do you give up to travel?

When tranquility turns to high pitched squeals - and it's not the monkeys.

On our recent trip to Bali we decided to venture north, to The Menjangan. This beautiful, tranquil resort is set in national park on the north coast of Bali. Roofless people movers bump up and down over the dirt tracks, quietly transporting guests from lodge, to reception, to restaurant, to beachfront. We are surrounded by forest, monkeys and birds. Trees arch over the dirt tracks as if reaching out for us, as we putt and bump along on the roof seating.

At the beachfront, couples laze back in canopied beach huts, sipping on cocktails at happy hour. Monitor lizards rustle in the mangroves. Staff hush quietly behind the bar and in the activities hut.

We are in the restaurant the morning after we arrive. Monkeys play in the trees just over the railing. We are sitting on a deck high up in the treetops, overlooking a valley of greenery. Again, the staff silently look after us. All we can hear are birds, and the monkeys swinging about. Sometimes they break out into a sqwauk, probably when one takes the branch of another. They are cheeky. 

Suddenly, another squeal echoes through the forest. Followed by another. Then a thump. Ashton has had enough of his sister harrassing him. He doesn't want to have breakfast here, he would prefer to be at the beach. He wants to play somewhere else. He wants his breakfast. He wants to go to the pool. He doesn't like Belle. He wants to go back to the room. He wants to sit where Belle is sitting. He wants to sit on mummy.

Serenity and silence has gone - far away. What do we do? Guests are surely going to start staring at us with raised eyebrows. Staff are definitely going to ask us to leave. Ashton goes on. Oh my. I can feel my face going red (or even more red in this heat). There is nothing we can do to calm him down.

And then, as suddenly as he started, he stops. Ashton finds the sling shot to scare the monkeys away from the deck, and he's all quiet again. Hmm. Random. The joys and surprises of travelling with a three year old. 

We depart quickly after breakfast, and hibernate the morning away in our room, and the pool just outside. We wait for a knock at the door, but it never comes. We also go to dinner early - trying to avoid as many people as we can. And before Ashton cracks it again. We survive. No one tells us to leave, no one raises eyebrows at us - or at least, not while we are looking.

I'm sorry for any guests there that had to bear witness to this. I hope you understand, or one day will. 

Whyalla - oh what a surprise.

When people asked where I was going next, I'd say 'Whyalla' and then wait for their response. Most times, it would be a look of confusion, followed by a 'why?' I have never thought of Whyalla as a destination in itself, or that I'd be catching an airplane to go there. I had a pre-conceived idea that it was a dusty, dirty, boring town in the middle of nowhere. A town I'd use as a pit stop or stopover on the way somewhere.

Yes, it is dusty. Red dust sits on the road, the curbs, the galvanised fences. Yes, it is nearly in the middle of nowhere. Like an oasis in the middle of the desert, there are some surprises in Whyalla that make me rub my eyes and say 'is that here'. The foreshore gets my attention. I see it while up on Hummock's Hill. To my right is the steel works plant lit up like a Christmas tree, smoke puffing out of chimneys. 'It's actually really photographic', I comment. Now, that doesn't mean it's pretty, but it would be interesting to photograph. Very interesting. Lots of graphic lines and colour. 

And to my left I can see the foreshore, with a marina at the end closest to us, at the foot of Hummock's Hill. Our local tells us that dolphins follow the boats in, so we wander down to the floating jetty to see if we can spot any. We luck out. I turn my attention to the foreshore precinct. Lawns, a huge playground for kids, permanent shades on the beach (which, unfortunately, was covered in seaweed), surf club, cafe and a long boardwalk lit up along the length. It is beautiful. We organise to come down the next morning, meet the locals that are out getting fit, and grab some sunrise pics. 

Discovering surprises like this is why I like to explore the towns and areas we travel through. I never know what I'm going to find. Sometimes there are treasures waiting - not always, but when there are, it's worth it. Journeys and detours can be as fun and interesting as the destination itself.

Seaworld with two tired little kids

Theme Parks. It isn't top of our priority list of 'to do' activities on holiday, but we manage to get some free tickets to Seaworld while staying at Gold Coast. So we figure, why not? The kids are getting up with the sun which makes us one of the first at the gate. We are up and ready so early we have time to go to a shopping centre on the way there, and then still have a twenty-minute wait in line before the gates open.

The park is a lot smaller than I imagined, but still plenty to do. We know we will be on somewhat of a time limit, with Ashton already yawning, so make a list of priorities. On route to our first show, we stop off to watch the dolphins playing with some guests in the water. It's fascinating for me, but the kids nag to move on after only a few minutes. It might be a quick trip to Seaworld at this rate, sweeping through each attraction every few minutes!

Dolphins are beautiful creatures, but I do wonder how they feel about being kept in small pens. As a staff whistle blows for one dolphin to jump out of the water, I watch as a pod swim around and around the parameter of a pen. 

One of my favourite attractions is the sea lion show. Entertainment for all ages. The kids (mainly) sit through the whole show, laughing and captivated by the story. I giggle away as the sea lion flaps and shuffles across the stage, down slides and through doors, in actor mode. 

Dora is on our list, as is the kids carnival area, but surprisingly, the underwater viewing area is a big hit with the kids. An amazing walkway, which is a bit scary for Belle to walk down (I don't know why), takes us under the water to see turtles, sharks, fish and all sorts of marine life. We end up down here for nearly an hour. It's busy, but with so much glass, it's easy enough to find a spot to watch. The kids squeeze in between people when they spot something and have to see the creature 'now'.

Just on three hours after getting in the gate, we are leaving again. We have seen only a small section of the park, slurped down iceblocks, flew through the air on the kiddy airplane ride twice each, and pulled a screaming kid away from stuffed toys at the polar bear shop. Our dear Belle fell in love with a white polar bear with a blue rug - but I couldn't 'bear' another stuffed toy in our house. Daddy also got slapped by our very tired and overstimulated little boy - probably for not letting him have another ice cream. Home time!

But, of course, we have one final hurdle. The shop everyone has to walk through to exit Seaworld. The polar bears with blue blankets are back. Argh. Belle goes crazy, trying to look at everything while I try to be cunning with attention-grabbing her to outside. Ten minutes later, we are out.

5/10 experience. Not because of the park, but because of our tired kids. 

Tips to remember for next time...

Perhaps best to do this at the start of the holiday - it's tiring stuff.

There are no swimming pools in the main area, so don't bother with taking bathers and towels. That is one less bag to lug around.

Get there early. Beat the heat, the crowds aren't as hectic, and the kids get tired easily.

Expect the souvenir shops, and prepare for them. Perhaps the kids can earn pocket money, and take that.

Don't take tired kids. It's no fun.

If theme parks are the reason for the trip, Seaworld Resort would be a good accommodation option.