Location photographer. Getting behind the scenes. Showing off the secret, and not so secret, treasures of the world.
A day in the Tarkine, North-West Tasmania.
The Tarkine in North-West Tasmania is a place l fell in love with. It ruined Eastern Tasmania for me.
Belle discovering the Tarkine.
Wow, this is an amazing part of the world. And to see the damage the 2016 bushfires made is sad, but it also gives hope with all the new growth colouring the charred trunks.
I attempted this in a day, although, if you are doing lots of walks, I'd recommend two days. I knew I wouldn't be doing too many hikes with the kids so chose carefully and drove a lot. It is a long day of driving, but so entrancing.
Thin winding roads lead the way to the Tarkine.
The drive there is fun too - thin bitumen roads winding their way through farmland. Bales of hay, cows and random chickens dot the rolling hills. Only the chickens notice the car as they flap away from the sides of the road as I pass. The highway is not much different to the country roads. It is a fraction wider, has a white line painted in the middle, and I can pass another vehicle without pulling off the road. Not that there are many cars on the road.
The Tarkine Dive itself has just over twenty attractions - lookouts, bridges, walks and sink holes. Walks range from easy 15 minute strolls to 5-6 hour coastal hikes.
Trowutta Arch beauty.
Trowutta Arch is an easy 15-minute stroll on a path through the rainforest. The floor is carpeted with moss, fallen trees and tree roots. At the end of the path is Trowutta Arch, the entrance to a water-filled sinkhole - a collapsed cave. One of the mossy rocks makes the perfect canvas to sketch your name. It entertained my artistic Belle while Ashton threw rocks into the water, measuring the 'plops' as they hit - as boys do.
Carpark area at Trowutta Arch entrance.
And the wildlife? Loud talk of leeches, the excitement of finding Cicada shells and 'testing' if the forest carries a coo-ee make sure we don't see any wildlife. Thankfully, we are the only tourists here, so we aren't ruining the quiet serenity for others.
Belle and Ashton finding little bugs and leaves.
Next is a drive through the burnt out area. An area that clashes with the general lush Tarkine elsewhere, where forest kisses each side of the road. These trees are now separated by the sky, little puffs of new green growth smothering the trunks. Burnt, spindly dead sticks stick up in between. Will it ever be the same?
Beautiful Tarkine forest floor.
After a late lunch stop at Julia's River, where we walked another 30 minute round forest track (which probably only took us 20 with after lunch energy) I headed towards the coast. Another contrast.
Pristine waterways.
Driving the road up to the coast, all I could see was barren farmland with nothing able to be grown. It's not windy today, but I can imagine the wind blasting in off the wild ocean. I mean, there is nothing between here and 15,000km of ocean to Patagonia on the south coast of America. Roaring 40's winds of up to 200km have been recorded here!
The path to discovery.
I'd love to stop and do some of the hike out to the ocean, but it's raining, and the kids are tired. So I don't.
Where did all these logs come from?
But I do stop at Edge of the World in Arthur River. And it looks jut like its name, if not a very pretty version. Waves pound in as far as I can see, huge logs have been tossed on every rocky outcrop of the coastline, and the tumbleweed sits sideways.
The other side of this rock is a five metre drop.
It's here that Ashton decides to sprint up to a rocky ledge to see what he and see. I see him running, and my heart stops, I go to scream, then he stops. And sits down. And calmly watches. Heart pounding I go over to him and see what he's looking at. And below him is a drop of over 5 metres. Argh. At least he knew what he was doing.
I'm calling it a day... back to Stanley for fish and chips. Now I'm tired.
NOTE:
I saw (somewhere) it's about 135km drive, but when you are twisting and turning, of course, it takes a lot longer. In some sections allow 15 minutes for 15km.
CLIENT SHOWCASE: King River Rafting
Kayaking on the Franklin River with King River Rafting - and the promo pics.
I hadn't thought of taking the kids kayaking before. I love adventures but presumed they would get bored after, hmm, 10 minutes.
They proved me wrong. This time I was happy to be wrong. And that doesn't happen often. :)
We were in Queenstown with King River Rafting. Paul normally takes people out white water rafting, but for kids aged five and seven, as you know, rafting is not really that appropriate. So he suggested a kayak up the Franklin River. He also liked the idea of getting some kids pics to promote that area of his biz.
Leaving Strahan early, I'd forgotten to pack spare clothes so was hoping we wouldn't get too wet. Oh well, I thought to myself, it's just kayaking (and worse case scenario, we can blast the heaters in the car when we get back). When Paul brought out wetsuits, booties and thermal layers for all of us I realised I had completely underestimated the experience and how cold we could get. Oops.
The kids looked ridiculously cute in the smallest adult gear we could find. Wetsuit legs rolled up like big cream puffs. Booties that flopped about like flippers. They stomped about with giggles.
The next clue to our adventure not being as leisurely as I thought hit me when we arrived at the river. I hauled a kayak over my head and plodded for ten minutes down the forest path to the river. Of course Paul asked if I was ok, but of course I answered, 'yep, no problems'. The kids had to carry a paddle each while I stepped one foot in front of the other, blinded by the kayak, hoping I wouldn't fall in the leech-infested ferns.
While Paul climbed in his and slid down the rock face to the water, I was a little more cautious. I shouldn't have worried, the blow-up kayaks are very stable and can handle just about anything, as I was soon to discover. Ashton jumped in and was paddling before I could push off the rocks.
We paddled for about five minutes. I'm sure I looked ridiculous... learning how to paddle straight using the paddle out one side only (not switching sides). The kayak nosing left then right up river, Paul had to come back and check in on me a few times. It was definitely a slow start.
Then we hit a rapid - with no water. Slimy rocks and branches lay strewn across the river. Hmm. Paul was all over it. He hopped out, hitched his canoe above his head and ran over the rocks to the next section of the river. Then he returned and did the same with our kayaks.
Meanwhile, I was desperate to find a non-slippery rock or branch to step on, and make sure the kids do the same (I don't think I found one). They loved it. I worried about them falling. Nothing unusual. But after doing this about five times up river, I was getting used to it. Then we had to do it all again on the way back. Workout? You bet. Fun? Definitely. Scenic? Given. It's truly stunning.
And... did the kids enjoy it? Absolutely. We took a risk, but because it was just us and Paul, and knew we could turn back at any time. But the kids just kept on going. They loved to 'help' paddle, lay down and watch the water float by, and grab hold of Paul's canoe to get a pull.
Their favourite bit? Clambering all over the wet rocks. Ashton also loved skimming rocks over the river surface - well, trying to.
My favourite part? Getting the hang of keeping the kayak straight while moving forward, using only one paddle. Winning!
Here are the pics I took...
NOTE: Definitely make sure you have a wet bag or housing for your camera - it will get wet.
Coffee shopping around Tasmania
How hard is it to get a good coffee? Am I fussy? Maybe.
Four weeks in Tasmania - coffee stops nearly every day. I have a few thoughts.
Four weeks in Tasmania. Four weeks away from my coffee machine. Breathe. It's ok.
Here's my roundup of coffee experiences. Nearly every day I went out for coffee. I looked for interesting and funky places, or busy places full of under 40's. Just my unconscious liking.
Devonport:
I'm sure it wasn't the 'happy to be travelling' buzz you get when you first go on holidays. I'm pretty damn sure the coffee was great. And I loved the little laneway digs at Laneway.
Boat Harbour Beach:
The location couldn't get any better. Right on the beach at Boat Harbour. It wouldn't matter how bad the coffee is; I'd enjoy it. The stickiest bliss balls I've ever had.
Burnie:
A great location overlooking the town and the coast at the Visitor Centre. Prepare to spend money. We went in for coffee and ended up with coffee, bliss balls, cake and cheese. Oops. At least we enjoyed it.
Strahan:
Coffee Shack is a retro little shed opposite the cruise and travel centres at the harbour. Unfortunately, we lucked out (according to a local) and went on a day when the owner wasn't working. She makes awesome coffee.
Cradle Mountain:
Last coffee for five or more days for some. Not for me, thank goodness. Great to chat with my dad before he set off on the Overland Track.
Sheffield: This shop rocks. Scary taking the kids in - 'look with your eyes, not your fingers' kind of place. And you can write on the toilet wall - so I did. Check out Blacksmith Gallery Cafe.
Deloraine:
They have a bike stuck to the wall outside The Empire Hotel. I think the cyclists like it. I know the owner loves cycling. Good coffee, even in takeaways.
Lake St Clair:
Sitting around people that have been hiking for five plus days with no shower may not be fun for the nose. Dad thinks the hot chocolates are the best he has ever drunk.
Cygnet:
Sitting in the sun with hippy locals at The Lotus Eaters Cafe. Trampoline for kids to jump on. Chocolate shards and little choco beans for the hot chocolates. Shame some of the staff couldn't be happier.
Kettering:
Steamhouse. One of the only places in Tasmania to offer coconut milk - and they had run out! Great coffee, friendly staff, and quirky. It's an ex-petrol station. Love it.
Bruny Island:
Tourist central at Bruny Island Cheese and Beer Co. But great to sit and have coffee with a cheese board. Wooden outdoor seating amongst the trees.
Hobart:
Coffee as it should be. Villino - yes. Island Coffee - yes. Cute little attic to lounge around in while the kids pretend to make coffee with the toy coffee machine.
Richmond:
Czegs. I think it's the place to be in Richmond. So busy. The breakfast looks SO yummy. Loads of teapots covering the walls. Squeaky wooden floorboards and different rooms to relax in.
Bicheno:
Pasinis was recommended, but our experience was a one in a million. Felt like I got growled at when at the counter trying to order, our order got lost, and then they couldn't complete it because they had run out of almond milk... and didn't tell us til later. Fixed it with a macchiato and a couple of pieces of honeycomb.
Coles Bay:
Tombolo Freycinet - heard it was great. Unfortunately not for me. The first day the coffee was so weak I had three shots! The second day it was strong but burnt almond milk.
Evandale:
This building and town overall is so very... yesteryear. The sign read 'best-preserved town in Tasmania' - or something like that. Grand two-story mansions and cosy stone cottages. Coffee and gluten free cheesecake by the fire at Ingleside is something I don't regret.
Launceston:
In the mall. So many choices! Spent the time waiting for my coffee looking around the tight hole in the wall. Trinkets everywhere - very interesting.
Coconut milk has not hit Tasmania as of April 2017. It's a rarity.
I order my coffees (mostly) as double shot lattes with coconut milk or macchiatos. Your 'average' latte or cappuccino may well be awesome at the places that failed my test. Or, as it happens sometimes, I could have just lucked out with the day of the week and barista.
DISCLOSURE: I'm no coffee snob - I just write on what I like.
Tasmania. Natural, wild, hypnotic, peaceful...
Tasmania. It really is a photographers paradise. I have taken 1000's of photos in under two weeks. And video. Argh. How am I going to get through editing all of them?
I've been in Tasmania for nearly two weeks now. Time has flown. We have done so much. I kinda feel rushed. Four weeks is nowhere near long enough to discover the surface of Tassie. But hey, we are having fun.
Here are some piccies so far... story behind them to come when I get some good internet (and time).
:)
Tasmania - here I come!
It's D Day! Tasmania, here I come. It's going to be full, it's going to be fun, it's going to be adventurous. New clients, new sights, new experiences. Yay.
Part of the Overland Track, Cradle Mountain, Tasmania
I'm heading south. Today I'm setting off for Tasmania. A three-day road-trip to Spirit of Tasmania. It's very exciting. I wonder how long that excitement will last? I mean, really, man and wife, two children aged five and seven, and a caravan? For nearly five weeks. I chuckle, and then try and get my breath again.
We haven't planned much. But do think we will go via Mount Gambier and Warnambool. We've booked the overnight sail on the Spirit of Tasmania, then... rambles. Rambles until Ben starts the Overland Track hike with my Dad. I think I'm okay with that. I have done it. But gee, I love hiking and being surrounded by just nature. And hey, I'll get to spend the week with the kids. Eek. There are wineries around, yes?
You know, when we planned to be in Tasmania for a month, I thought that would be plenty of time. Appears not. I'm already upset that we are only going to have two days around Bruny Island and Huon Valley. I feel like I'm missing towns I want to stay in. I want more. I'm already thinking we have to go back for Tamar Valley and Huon Valley - two places with not much scheduled time. Argh.
Anyway, stay tuned. I'll be writing and posting pics to Instagram as we go. Tasmania - you are gorgeous. Can't wait!
The art of being in nature - on a multi day hike.
I'm prepping to go on a hike with my Dad, nephew and niece in December. The Great Ocean Walk. It's exciting. I've only done one multi-day hike before, the Overland Track in Tasmania. I hiked that with my Dad also.
I've never tasted water so good (from the running streams).
There were times when I wondered what I was doing. But then the track would turn a corner, or reach the top of an ascent, and I would stand in awe. My jaw would drop, quite literally. And I'd hear myself say out loud, 'Wow, this is amazing. I love this.'
Hiking luxury, the boardwalks.
Best bits
Walking over the mountain tops on the boarded track, I had to resist singing 'the hills are alive'. I imagined the bush-covered mountain tops to look like giant hairy bums if there were such a thing.
At the end of the day, I loved sitting down and chatting with people. I'm a people person. I appreciated the quiet and small chatter with Dad during the day but loved gathering for stories at night.
Exploring the diversity of one place over time kept my curious nature at bay. My surrounds were constantly changing from wet forest to hardy bushland, to mountain tops - all in one day.
The treat meal at the end of the trip. Everyone needs to splash out, they deserve it.
The start of the tree roots - they only got bigger.
Sucky bits
Day one saw us 'stuck' with a large group of two families with loud kids. The kids did nothing wrong, but we didn't want to be hiking and sleeping with them for the rest of the track. So next day we hiked two days in one. By the end of the day, when we had to pick our feet up over a forest of tree roots, we wondered whether we had done the right thing. But we made it.
Ever tried to haul yourself up a near vertical wall with a 20kg bag on your back (and camera bag clipped to the front of me)? That happened on day one. We did have a chain to hold onto, and some step holds, but it was steep. I'd hate to think what would happen if I lost my grip.
Having to carry all rubbish off the track. All rubbish - including the toilet paper.
I was ultra eager to have a long hot shower, after having no shower for five days. Smelly belly and more. I did have wipe downs but couldn't bring myself to splash about in the near freezing water.
I came out of forest and saw this amazing view. Speechless. And not because I'd just pushed myself up a hill.
Verdict
Many people say that nature is grounding, and it's the best place to let yourself just be. To find yourself. To nurture yourself. To love yourself. Well, I guess in a semi-torturous way, multi-day hikes do just that.
And there is the bonus of getting fit while getting great photos.
Bring it on! I want to do more.
Optional hikes up mountains are worth it.
Multi-day hikes I've done...
Inca Trail, Peru
Mount Kinabalu, Sabah
Overland Track, Australia
Where to next? Would love your thoughts.
Treat meal after the hike. Yum.
