Location photographer. Getting behind the scenes. Showing off the secret, and not so secret, treasures of the world.
Vinales, Cuba. Where the tobacco grows.
Vinales. A place of tobacco. The farmland of Cuba. A day trip here…
Vinales is a town in western Cuba. Around two hours drive from Havana.
We get up early one morning to head out there for the day. Having been out dancing the night before, it's hard to keep my eyes open. I normally love to watch the scenery change and see where I am. But today my eyes keep shutting. When I do pull them apart, I'm spoilt and will myself to stay awake a bit longer. Havana and its residential sprawl is gradually replaced with farmland, farmers riding on their ploughs and tobacco drying houses bigger than their houses.
The houses are cute. Colourfully painted, simple and small, nearly always with porch and rocking chair. The drying houses are big and wooden. With all the tobacco lined up neatly inside.
As we travel further, limestone monoliths 'mogotes' erupt out of the greenery. We visit Vinales Mural de la Prehistoria that has been painted over many years by an artist, Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo. Although the mural itself is often labelled as overhyped, the lush Vinales Valley was given status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and is very worthy of a visit.
Also, It is here I have my first 'top up to your liking' pina colada. Mmm, I'll just say 'happy mornings, la la la...' Another reason to go and visit the mural.
Of course, being in Vinales, a visit to a tobacco farm to see inside one of the drying houses is required. We not only see inside, smelling all the tobacco at various drying stages, but the farmer also shows us how he makes the cigars. We then we get to try. I don't smoke so have no idea what to do, but I give a little puff without inhaling. I realise the taste isn't as bad as I thought - much better than the smell of cigarette and I don't cough. Much.
There is a lot to do in Vinales but we are only here for a day. We visit a lookout to see the unusual landscape of green and monoliths popping up, the tobacco farm, caves and of course drink rum. I'd love to stay a bit longer but a concert is calling us. We grab another snooze opportunity while driving back to Havana and before we know it, are hit with the intoxicating smell of fumes from cars and buses spluttering everything out as the clatter along the streets. Bless Havana and her cars.
Streets of Havana - the photos
The photos that make up ‘Streets of Havana’. Check them out… and let me know which one you like the most!
So, Streets of Havana is up in The Howling Owl, Adelaide. We had a great night celebrating the opening with dancing, Cuban food, Cuban inspired cocktails and music.
In case you can’t make it… here are the pics that are up.
And, of course, all are available to purchase. Check out the prints, gift cards and calendars here.
GREAT CHRISTMAS PRESENT IDEA!!!
Cars, architecture, rum, salsa and cigars….
Cuba. Time for rum, cigars, salsa and all things old.
Cruising the Malecon
Taxis are a feast for all senses.
What do you think of when you think of Cuba? Old cars? Crumbling buildings? Salsa? Rum? Cigars? Well, it’s all of that. And it doesn’t disappoint me.
I get picked up from the airport in a crumbling car who’s doors barely close. The seat squeaks and the springs are begging to be allowed to pop through the thin vinyl. The smell of oil, petrol and general fumes filtrate through the car, with intermittent whiffs of cumin and other random scents (some good, some bad) on the way into Havana. My eyes are bombarded with old classic cars, shanty ghettos, the odd modern car and most interestingly, women in active wear and stilettos.
A typical street in Havana
A supplies shop for three people
The homes of the fancier suburb of Vedado where we are staying are glorious mansions of all colours. They, however, haven’t been maintained in years. They are crumbling from four corners. Some homes are no longer habitable. Some have been restored to some extent while others seem to be barely standing. Driving the backstreets, it looks like a movie set that has been deserted and left to die. It looks like I shouldn’t be here - like it’s dangerous and brimming with criminals. But it’s not. I feel safe here, not just because I feel like everyone watches (aka keeps an eye out for) me. But because the people are nice. They go about their normal everyday life - which I still haven’t figured out - without making a spectacle of me, the tourist. I wonder whether they work, or how often they work. I see a lot of relaxing on balconies. One morning I see a lady in an upper-level apartment getting her newspaper delivered via bucket lift system. She lowers a bucket, postman puts letters and paper in, and she pulls the rope up. Wow, she doesn't even need to answer the door or climb the stairs.
Just one type of Havana Club - easier to get than water some days
Salsa and rum go hand in hand… nearly. I am told, essential for longevity is Vitamin R. Rum. And I have enough of it in my two weeks. So I guess I’m living a long life, right? The mojitos and pina coladas are some of the best I’ve ever tasted, and I’m sure it has nothing to do with the free pour into the glass that nearly fills it. Never. When rum is so cheap, think under $10 a bottle (to buy from the supermarket), heck, it’s the cheapest part of the drink.
Not strong enough? Pour your own rum ‘to taste’
But drinking lots of rum is not conducive to great dancing… so you either drink or dance. At night, I opt to dance (with a few mojitos or rums to quench the thirst ;)) That is, after all, what I am here for. Salsa and concerts are on every night in Havana - and with concerts costing under $20 each - sometimes I do two a night. Venues range from inside venues where we are shipped out immediately after the concert to outdoor venues on the water's edge where we can dance through the night after the show has finished. Twinkly tree lights, sparkly ocean water lapping just outside the railing and plenty of seats to relax on when not dancing. The dance floor is packed tight, and the floor is uneven, but everyone moves suavely and sensually, rarely bumping into other dancers. The power of dancers knowing their craft - or a lead knowing where they can send their follower.
Up close with many big stars at nightly concerts
One day I venture out of Havana, and into Vinales. It’s a place I’ve seen many photos of and always wanted to see for myself. It’s the place of tobacco. Farmers grow their tobacco in the fields, build huge drying houses and then hand roll their tobacco into cigars. I meet one farmer and he shows me how it’s done. From walking me through the drying house (a huge timber shed much bigger than their home) to rolling one for me to try. I don’t smoke, but of course ‘when in Cuba…’ I have to try. I cough and splutter a little, but the taste is actually ok. I expect it to be horrid, as I can’t stand the smell or taste of cigarettes - but it’s not. The day trip to Vinales is completed with a visit to caves and more interestingly, a big artwork rock face where we have ’the best pina colada in Cuba’. The drinks are made fresh and a standard rum is added, but then the bottle is put on the bar to ‘top up to your taste’. To say we were ‘happy’ before lunch is a slight understatement. I’m sure our singing echoes could be heard for kilometres.
Cigar making in Vinales
Beautiful Vinales country
Mosquito won
I also visit Trinidad for a night. It's known as the best preserved historic town in Cuba so is crawling with tourists. Something I don't usually like. But here, it's still relaxed. Perhaps it has something to do with the pebble streets - nothing can go too quick. Or maybe because it's in Cuba - nobody lives too hectic. An afternoon spent wandering the streets followed by salsa in the square at night then clubbing in an underground cave... I discover many different sides to this town. I also seem to make friends with the local mosquitos while sleeping. Maybe they are trying to suck the rum out of my eyelid, the only part of my body not smothered in insect repellent? My souvenir of Trinidad is a very swallon eyelid and a painting (which I ended up ruining because I leave it rolled up in the heat causing the paint to crack). One I keep, the other I happily wave 'adios' to by evening.
Trinidad street
So, what else is Cuba? Plenty more. But I'm yet to discover it. I’ll let you know when I go back and meander further. It is a country I will return to - the friendly people, the culture, the dancing, the rum…
Cuban dance rehearsal
Streets of Havana
Streets of Havana, Cuba exhibition by lifestyle and location photographer, Heidi Lewis of heidi who photos. Come join us for some Cuban fun on 1st November at Howling Owl!
In May 2018 I went to Cuba for two weeks. It's been on my bucket list for many years, so I was very excited to be going, finally. Even if it did mean over 36 hours in travel to get there.
I went with Adelaide dance school, La Bomba. We stayed in Havana most of the time - discovering the neighbourhoods, visiting a local family, taking dance classes, watching an intimate dance rehearsal and of course drinking mojitos and salsa'ing through the night at many concerts and night spots.
During the day we discovered the streets - by foot, taxi, the yellow coco taxis and bicitaxi. Tourist areas and the not so frequented areas.
Streets of Havana exhibition shows (predominantly Old) Havana through my eyes. The buildings are crumbling but beautiful. Life happens on the street. It's a mix of colour, rubbish, beauty, smells (mainly fumes and petrol) and old relics.
Launch will be on Thursday 1 November from 6pm at The Howling Owl. Cuban inspired cocktails will be available and a Cuban dance class (with La Bomba) will be held at 7.30pm.
INFORMATION:
Streets of Havana
10 Vaughan Pl, Adelaide SA 5000
Launch 1st Nov at 6pm
CONTACT HEIDI 0402 716 406 for all media enquiries
Havana nights...
Havana nights… salsa and rum.
DANCING IN HAVANA
Cuba. It’s the home of salsa. Anyone who loves salsa, more so Cuban salsa aka ‘circle salsa’ would love here. I have dreamt of coming here for many years. The allure of the classic cars and crumbling buildings was the main attraction for many years, that is until I took up salsa.
I'm told the dance scene has changed a lot in the last few years. Cubans are getting used to foreigners now, but before, it was a novelty. Any foreigner would be asked to dance, song after song. I find though, that they want to dance with people who can dance well (or a person they find attractive :)) The better you dance, the more dances you are asked for.
But even if I am not asked to dance, I love watching. In fact, sometimes I find myself in quite the dream-like state watching people. Growing up dancing, they know their stuff. They glide, they are smooth, they have the fancy moves, they are sexy - they are intoxicating.
If you are a newbie to dance, don’t despair. There are ways of still getting a dance. You can hire a dancer to go with you. You could do some classes then try your luck. Or you can go with a group and have a blast. With or without the Cubans. This is what we do.
We came to have fun, and we do. And we gain friends along the way. Cubans love fun and gravitate towards it. Do not take yourself too seriously while here. They (well, some) can be blunt, but they don’t mean it rudely.
Just like they don’t think they are rude by staring and ‘wolf whistling’ in their different ways when every woman walks past them. One day I watch a man nearly walk into building columns because he is too busy gawking at the woman he just walked past. The woman - dressed in active wear, with a very large booty, keeps walking, head held high while he gawks in despair. I giggled. The outward expression of interest is something I am not used to seeing. It's not about the hourglass woman with bigger than average breasts here, it is all about the curves and bum.
Anyway, back to the dancing. Some rules… Not just for in Cuba either.
Don’t get tense. You will be told this a lot. ‘Just relax’. Don't worry about not knowing what you are doing, or getting anxious because your dance partner is much better. Yep, easier said than done sometimes.
Second rule… let the guy lead. Don’t try to guess what he is going to do, just let it flow.
Three…. stay by the dance floor if you want to be asked to dance. That way, the people interested in dancing more can grab you when they finish a song.
Four… normally it is the guy that asks for the dance. In Australia, this isn’t always the case, but it is here. Guys may be shocked if you ask, it’s not a social faux pa, just be warned.
Salsa is the main dance of Cuba. Solo or with a partner, everyone can dance. We dance salsa suelta (solo) at many concerts while appreciating the performer in front of us. Sometimes it’s directed from the performers on stage, sometimes it’s followed from someone in your ‘line’ of dance. And sometimes, you just dance to your own style.
Now, go out there and dance. Don’t worry about the sweat (from anyone and everyone). It will be there, in abundance.
MAY 1st Countdown... to Cuba!
Ticking off a bucket list item... Cuba.
The countdown is on...
to May 1!!!!
It’s been on my bucket list for a long time. I didn’t know when I would actually get there - it seemed like one of those hopeful dreams that may or may not become a reality. So when the opportunity comes up to go with my dance school, I thought why not.
The timing seemed right - if there is ever right timing. I separated with my husband last year. It’s only two weeks. I love dancing. I can go with a group of people I know, and the tour is run by a friend who has been doing cultural dance tours there for eight years. She knows the in’s and out’s better than me.
I’ll be going to the best dance spots, getting to know locals and dancing with friends. Plus my must-do’s of going anywhere… seeing all the history, taking lots of photos and discovering new parts of the world.
Me being me, of course, I’ll be taking lots of photos. I already have plans to have a “Cuba” exhibition when I return and maybe, just maybe, a calendar! Who wouldn’t love a Cuban calendar? There aren’t many around, so I’m going to have fun with this.
I am going on a tour, but will have free time. IF there is anything you recommend I have to do - please email or comment. I only have two weeks there, but seriously want to make the most of it. I’ll sleep on the plane. Well, try to.
P.S.
While I’m there, I’ll also be researching articles and taking stock photos for publications and my blog :)
If you are interested in me writing/photographing something for you, please let me know before I go.
