Location photographer. Getting behind the scenes. Showing off the secret, and not so secret, treasures of the world.
Flinders Ranges
Flinders Ranges. Something a little bit special. And a little something for everyone.
Who's been to the Flinders? I used to go as a child. Camping, hiking, Grandpa catching rabbits for tea that night, my cousins and I making graves, complete with named headstones, for the baby ones caught.
I've taken my kids camping up there too.
But recently I've been working around the Flinders - and discovering how much there is. Station stays, food, helicopter flights, beautiful accommodation. It's not all camping and hiking. The landscape, the feeling, the weathered peaks and rocky gorges... they are a given. It really is one of the most dramatic and beautiful landscapes I've seen.
The Flinders Ranges is the largest mountain range in South Australia, which starts about 200 km north of Adelaide and stretch for over 400km. I follow the main highways, back roads to stations and even some scenic off-road tracks (in my little VW Golf) when I take the wrong way. It's all quite an entertaining adventure.
Pics below:
https://www.facebook.com/flindersfoodco/ - delicious food in Hawker
https://southaustralia.com/products/flinders-ranges/attraction/kanyaka-ruins-station - some history
https://www.barossahelicopters.com.au/parachilna/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4MmwlZvo5AIVjYRwCh2PWAA4EAAYASAAEgJaMPD_BwE - fly over the Flinders
http://www.stationstayssa.com.au/station/mt-little-station/ - farm stay
https://www.jeffmorgangallery.com.au/ - art gallery in Hawker
https://southaustralia.com/products/flinders-ranges/attraction/old-wilpena-station - some history at Wilpena
Prairie Hotel, Parachilna
“The intimate Prairie Front Bar is where you will meet locals as well as visitors from all over the world.” From the Prairie Hotel website. And it’s not wrong!
When I first started doing vision boards, a photo of the Prairie Hotel was on one. It was actually a journal I had covered with photos of what I want to do, where I want to go, and who I want to be.
I didn't know much about the hotel, but I knew it looked awesome, was in the middle of nowhere and you could stand outside have a drink looking out over vast empty land. And it was in northern South Australia, in the Flinders Ranges. All very doable.
I 'ticked' it off my list a few years ago, visiting for lunch while camping at Wilpena Pound. I love how we can 'pop over' to Parachilna, two hours from Wilpena, for lunch, but yet in Adelaide a 45 minute drive is a consideration for lunch.
A couple of months ago, I stayed at Prairie Hotel en route to Innamincka. I sat by the outside fire, glass of wine in hand, chatting to people. I watched people come and go in the front bar while sipping my (err, third) coffee next morning. I even 'oohed' and 'ahhed' over the inspiring views I had with a chopper flight over the Flinders Ranges early morning.
Why go to the Prairie Hotel? The yummy food, the comfy bed, and the quiet vastness that envelopes the hotel are my fave reasons. It's also a great place to refresh on your drive.
Strzelecki Track, the outback and Innamincka
A trip out of the city to the Outback…
I am an ocean girl. It's where I feel happiest, most alive, relaxed and 'at home'. So to take me to the Outback is a little adventure. I love my adventures, where I discover, learn and have fun. Then re-align myself with the ocean when I get back home.
I had a photoshoot for The Outback Loop, Innamincka Hotel and Flinders Ranges and Outback this year. It took me on a long weekend trip into the Outback via the Strzelecki Track. Lots of red dust and billions of flies. I didn't mind the dust (although the camera probably hated me for it) but the flies - argh, I can never get used to them. We would arrive anywhere, in the middle of nowhere, and within seconds, have flies swarming us. My hands were working a constant windscreen wiper motion across my face.
But it was worth it. The beauty of being surrounded by vast nothingness. The quietness. The colours. The people. The history of Burke and Wills. And let's not forget the dancing in the front bar - true country style, after a few beers (or wine for me).
Country life depends on community, weather and the natural environment. Visiting this area is a real world classroom. At least once, everyone should get themselves into the Outback.
Coober Pedy and The Breakaways
Coober Pedy and The Breakaways. Visit for something a bit unique.
Coober Pedy is a town in northern South Australia, 846 km north of Adelaide on the Stuart Highway. It's in the desert - the South Australia outback. It can get hot here, but not when I visit in June. In June, the sun is out, but the wind that whips along the open vastness can be chilling.
Much of the town has been built underground in a bid to get away from the summer heat. It's what makes this town quirky and interesting. Visitors can stay in underground houses and hotels, visit cafes, shops, galleries and churches and of course, go down the mines.
Coober Pedy is also known as the Opal Capital of the World. You can find your own or purchase from the many stores.
Just north of Coober Pedy is The Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park. It is a protected aboriginal heritage site and one of South Australia's Outback 'sights to be seen'.
An inland sea once covered the Breakaways. Today it is a rocky and colourful landscape that looks like it's from another world.
The dog fence is also here - a 2m high wire barrier that stretches for over 5,300km across three States. It protects the Southern farming country from the Dingo.
The best time to see the awesome Breakaways is sunrise or sunset, when the colours intensify and the shadows that fill the land add drama. It's no secret - everyone comes at this time.
Port Vila, Vanuatu
Port Vila - get in a car and go out to the country. Everybody does.
Oh, these guys know what they are doing! To get off the ship, passengers have to walk through a maze of markets. It's the only way off. Smart. And then the touts are at the end with all sorts of offers from water taxis, car and driver hire, tours...
We hire a car and driver for $100 and go out to Blue Lagoon, the local cascades called Rarru and then back to Port Vila for some coffee and (attempted) internet action.
It's fun playing Tarzan and flying off ropes into the water at Blue Lagoon. It would be a relaxing place to hang out for longer - with gardens surrounding the lagoon.
Then we hide behind tumbling water at Rarru Cascades and jump off the top edge into the dark depths. We are careful where we jump in - there are a lot of rocks close to the surface, and you have to know where the 'holes' are. Locals are here to keep us in the right area.
Port Vila has cheap duty free - so we find out later. All we do in the city is have coffee and attempt to connect to wifi. We end up giving up - and appreciating the fact that we can't connect. Let's get back to holiday mode!
Mystery Island, Vanuatu
Mystery Island. Inyeug Island. Beautiful but haunted by spirits.
The people of Aneityum (the nearby island) won't live on Inyeug Island (known as Mystery Island by tourists) because they believe it's haunted by spirits. All infrastructure here is for tourists - toilet block, market/bar/massage huts and a mini airport with a grass runway.
Inyeug means Small Island in a local language - and it's correct. 1.5km square, Mystery Island is easy and fun to walk around. I go for a wander, trying to find my little slice of solitude. But can't. The one path around the island is tranquil, but there is only so much island over 2000 people can scatter over. Most people head to the southern side where there are sun chairs, bar and food. I head the opposite way.
The girls get their hair braided, Ashton shops his way through the market, we watch the local men doing dance performances (while their kids watch on), and then I relax on the beach.
Lifou Island, New Caledonia
Lifou Island. Another beautiful, laid back island. And some good snorkelling.
Lifou Island is the largest, most populous and most important island of the Loyalty Islands (via Wikipedia). We arrive and are greeted by a small village - and many dogs. Wandering the road up the hill, we then turn left and head down the dirt road to Jinek Bay.
The reef here is well preserved, and snorkelling is limited to 200 people each day. We presume we can't get in because we haven't booked. But we are lucky. We pay the local $10 each and get in the cool water. It is a highlight; I haven't snorkelled much, so it's fun skimming over reef watching lots of varied, colourful fish dart around me. I last well over 30 minutes before the cold water gets me shivering — the best snorkelling of our cruise.
Isle of Pines, New Caledonia
Isle of Pines - a beautiful island.
Now, everyone has told me this is the most beautiful place. Magical and intoxicating. And it is gorgeous. I can imagine it would be magic if it weren't for the 2000 plus people lounging about on the two strips of beach that are Kanumera Bay and Kuto Bay.
Snorkelling around the sacred rock in Kanumera Bay is my first snorkel in many years. I start from the beach opposite and scare myself by going alone in deep water, no coral, no fish and plenty of strange underwater noises. I am informed it is excellent snorkelling so am expecting colour and fish everywhere. Instead, I find some dull colours and a few small fish. I miss the good stuff, but I'm cold, so get out and warm up in the sun.
I spot a resort over the other side of Kanumera Bay and comment it would be a great place to stay - cruise passengers can't access their beach so they can see all the action from reasonable quietness and solitude still.
After the kids get their snorkelling fix, we head back to Kuto Bay, just a few minutes walk through tall trees. A coconut falls from a tree. The kids play in the clear waters. And I enjoy the sun a little more — a lovely place to relax for the day.
Noumea, New Caledonia
A few hours in Noumea.
Nouméa is the capital of the South Pacific archipelago and overseas French territory New Caledonia. Wikipedia says it's known for beaches and its blend of French and native Kanak influences. Many people I spoke to before going saw it as nothing special and not worth visiting.
So I was very keen to see for myself.
We got on the hop on hop off bus and went around the coast, stopping at the markets where they sold a mix of local products and the usual 'Made in China' souvenirs. Every place we go to accepts Australian dollars but prices are in Pacific Franc.
Deciding not to do a tour, we head for the beach. We stop at Baie de Citrons for a swim. It's a shell beach with a swimming pontoon the kids had fun jumping off and swimming around. Warning though - the water is 'fresh' in July. I only dipped my toes in.
My thoughts after just four hours here?
It's touristy.
It's expensive.
It's pretty for a capital.
First time cruising... hmm.
I didn’t think I’d like cruising. But gave it a go anyway. See what I think…
In my early twenties, I worked on an Italian cruise ship sailing from Venice through the Greek Islands. It was an experience I'm glad I had, but it didn't leave me wanting to go on cruise holidays. You see, when I travel, I like to feel like I'm discovering it on my own. I don't like feeling like a tourist. Unfortunately, when you are cruising, it can be hard to escape the people.
Fifteen years later I find myself booking a cruise holiday for my children and me to go on with friends. Clearly, cruising hasn't been on my radar. I was worried about the 'being stuck around lots of people' thing but wanted to give it a go.
And I was right. Stopping at tropical islands, I kept finding myself saying "Wow, look at this place. Imagine how beautiful it could be without all these people."
I always thought cruising could be a nice (and convenient) way to get a taster of a place, but I didn't feel this way. Eight hours wasn't long enough for me to explore and 'feel' the place, and having lots of people around that aren't usually there changes the vibe also.
Negatives of cruising:
Waiting and lining up for tables, getting on/off the ship.
If you try and eat healthily, food can become monotonous.
Plastic cups and melamine in main buffet dining room.
Lots of kids (on our ship at least).
Have to share your experience on an island with lots of other people swarming around.
Positives of cruising:
Kids have lots to do and if old enough can roam the ship by themselves
Seminars, massages, bingo, dancing, movies - lots of activities.
Adults only area at the back of the ship.
The balcony rooms are great for an escape - tranquil and beautiful watching the sunset as you cruise out of port each day.
Experience a few different places without having to pack/unpack.
Theatre performances each night.
The kids had a great time. They loved hanging out with friends, eating whatever they wanted (which stressed me out) and experiencing lots of things they don't do every day at home. Movies by the pool, mini-golf on the roof, waterslides, theatre shows and spending their money on arcade games and lollies without me knowing.
Would they like to cruise again? Of course. But would I book again? No. Cruising isn't for everyone. Some people love it; some people don't. But I'm glad I had the experience (for myself and the kids).
