Location photographer. Getting behind the scenes. Showing off the secret, and not so secret, treasures of the world.
Strzelecki Track, the outback and Innamincka
A trip out of the city to the Outback…
I am an ocean girl. It's where I feel happiest, most alive, relaxed and 'at home'. So to take me to the Outback is a little adventure. I love my adventures, where I discover, learn and have fun. Then re-align myself with the ocean when I get back home.
I had a photoshoot for The Outback Loop, Innamincka Hotel and Flinders Ranges and Outback this year. It took me on a long weekend trip into the Outback via the Strzelecki Track. Lots of red dust and billions of flies. I didn't mind the dust (although the camera probably hated me for it) but the flies - argh, I can never get used to them. We would arrive anywhere, in the middle of nowhere, and within seconds, have flies swarming us. My hands were working a constant windscreen wiper motion across my face.
But it was worth it. The beauty of being surrounded by vast nothingness. The quietness. The colours. The people. The history of Burke and Wills. And let's not forget the dancing in the front bar - true country style, after a few beers (or wine for me).
Country life depends on community, weather and the natural environment. Visiting this area is a real world classroom. At least once, everyone should get themselves into the Outback.
Coober Pedy and The Breakaways
Coober Pedy and The Breakaways. Visit for something a bit unique.
Coober Pedy is a town in northern South Australia, 846 km north of Adelaide on the Stuart Highway. It's in the desert - the South Australia outback. It can get hot here, but not when I visit in June. In June, the sun is out, but the wind that whips along the open vastness can be chilling.
Much of the town has been built underground in a bid to get away from the summer heat. It's what makes this town quirky and interesting. Visitors can stay in underground houses and hotels, visit cafes, shops, galleries and churches and of course, go down the mines.
Coober Pedy is also known as the Opal Capital of the World. You can find your own or purchase from the many stores.
Just north of Coober Pedy is The Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park. It is a protected aboriginal heritage site and one of South Australia's Outback 'sights to be seen'.
An inland sea once covered the Breakaways. Today it is a rocky and colourful landscape that looks like it's from another world.
The dog fence is also here - a 2m high wire barrier that stretches for over 5,300km across three States. It protects the Southern farming country from the Dingo.
The best time to see the awesome Breakaways is sunrise or sunset, when the colours intensify and the shadows that fill the land add drama. It's no secret - everyone comes at this time.
Port Vila, Vanuatu
Port Vila - get in a car and go out to the country. Everybody does.
Oh, these guys know what they are doing! To get off the ship, passengers have to walk through a maze of markets. It's the only way off. Smart. And then the touts are at the end with all sorts of offers from water taxis, car and driver hire, tours...
We hire a car and driver for $100 and go out to Blue Lagoon, the local cascades called Rarru and then back to Port Vila for some coffee and (attempted) internet action.
It's fun playing Tarzan and flying off ropes into the water at Blue Lagoon. It would be a relaxing place to hang out for longer - with gardens surrounding the lagoon.
Then we hide behind tumbling water at Rarru Cascades and jump off the top edge into the dark depths. We are careful where we jump in - there are a lot of rocks close to the surface, and you have to know where the 'holes' are. Locals are here to keep us in the right area.
Port Vila has cheap duty free - so we find out later. All we do in the city is have coffee and attempt to connect to wifi. We end up giving up - and appreciating the fact that we can't connect. Let's get back to holiday mode!
Mystery Island, Vanuatu
Mystery Island. Inyeug Island. Beautiful but haunted by spirits.
The people of Aneityum (the nearby island) won't live on Inyeug Island (known as Mystery Island by tourists) because they believe it's haunted by spirits. All infrastructure here is for tourists - toilet block, market/bar/massage huts and a mini airport with a grass runway.
Inyeug means Small Island in a local language - and it's correct. 1.5km square, Mystery Island is easy and fun to walk around. I go for a wander, trying to find my little slice of solitude. But can't. The one path around the island is tranquil, but there is only so much island over 2000 people can scatter over. Most people head to the southern side where there are sun chairs, bar and food. I head the opposite way.
The girls get their hair braided, Ashton shops his way through the market, we watch the local men doing dance performances (while their kids watch on), and then I relax on the beach.
Lifou Island, New Caledonia
Lifou Island. Another beautiful, laid back island. And some good snorkelling.
Lifou Island is the largest, most populous and most important island of the Loyalty Islands (via Wikipedia). We arrive and are greeted by a small village - and many dogs. Wandering the road up the hill, we then turn left and head down the dirt road to Jinek Bay.
The reef here is well preserved, and snorkelling is limited to 200 people each day. We presume we can't get in because we haven't booked. But we are lucky. We pay the local $10 each and get in the cool water. It is a highlight; I haven't snorkelled much, so it's fun skimming over reef watching lots of varied, colourful fish dart around me. I last well over 30 minutes before the cold water gets me shivering — the best snorkelling of our cruise.
Isle of Pines, New Caledonia
Isle of Pines - a beautiful island.
Now, everyone has told me this is the most beautiful place. Magical and intoxicating. And it is gorgeous. I can imagine it would be magic if it weren't for the 2000 plus people lounging about on the two strips of beach that are Kanumera Bay and Kuto Bay.
Snorkelling around the sacred rock in Kanumera Bay is my first snorkel in many years. I start from the beach opposite and scare myself by going alone in deep water, no coral, no fish and plenty of strange underwater noises. I am informed it is excellent snorkelling so am expecting colour and fish everywhere. Instead, I find some dull colours and a few small fish. I miss the good stuff, but I'm cold, so get out and warm up in the sun.
I spot a resort over the other side of Kanumera Bay and comment it would be a great place to stay - cruise passengers can't access their beach so they can see all the action from reasonable quietness and solitude still.
After the kids get their snorkelling fix, we head back to Kuto Bay, just a few minutes walk through tall trees. A coconut falls from a tree. The kids play in the clear waters. And I enjoy the sun a little more — a lovely place to relax for the day.
Noumea, New Caledonia
A few hours in Noumea.
Nouméa is the capital of the South Pacific archipelago and overseas French territory New Caledonia. Wikipedia says it's known for beaches and its blend of French and native Kanak influences. Many people I spoke to before going saw it as nothing special and not worth visiting.
So I was very keen to see for myself.
We got on the hop on hop off bus and went around the coast, stopping at the markets where they sold a mix of local products and the usual 'Made in China' souvenirs. Every place we go to accepts Australian dollars but prices are in Pacific Franc.
Deciding not to do a tour, we head for the beach. We stop at Baie de Citrons for a swim. It's a shell beach with a swimming pontoon the kids had fun jumping off and swimming around. Warning though - the water is 'fresh' in July. I only dipped my toes in.
My thoughts after just four hours here?
It's touristy.
It's expensive.
It's pretty for a capital.
First time cruising... hmm.
I didn’t think I’d like cruising. But gave it a go anyway. See what I think…
In my early twenties, I worked on an Italian cruise ship sailing from Venice through the Greek Islands. It was an experience I'm glad I had, but it didn't leave me wanting to go on cruise holidays. You see, when I travel, I like to feel like I'm discovering it on my own. I don't like feeling like a tourist. Unfortunately, when you are cruising, it can be hard to escape the people.
Fifteen years later I find myself booking a cruise holiday for my children and me to go on with friends. Clearly, cruising hasn't been on my radar. I was worried about the 'being stuck around lots of people' thing but wanted to give it a go.
And I was right. Stopping at tropical islands, I kept finding myself saying "Wow, look at this place. Imagine how beautiful it could be without all these people."
I always thought cruising could be a nice (and convenient) way to get a taster of a place, but I didn't feel this way. Eight hours wasn't long enough for me to explore and 'feel' the place, and having lots of people around that aren't usually there changes the vibe also.
Negatives of cruising:
Waiting and lining up for tables, getting on/off the ship.
If you try and eat healthily, food can become monotonous.
Plastic cups and melamine in main buffet dining room.
Lots of kids (on our ship at least).
Have to share your experience on an island with lots of other people swarming around.
Positives of cruising:
Kids have lots to do and if old enough can roam the ship by themselves
Seminars, massages, bingo, dancing, movies - lots of activities.
Adults only area at the back of the ship.
The balcony rooms are great for an escape - tranquil and beautiful watching the sunset as you cruise out of port each day.
Experience a few different places without having to pack/unpack.
Theatre performances each night.
The kids had a great time. They loved hanging out with friends, eating whatever they wanted (which stressed me out) and experiencing lots of things they don't do every day at home. Movies by the pool, mini-golf on the roof, waterslides, theatre shows and spending their money on arcade games and lollies without me knowing.
Would they like to cruise again? Of course. But would I book again? No. Cruising isn't for everyone. Some people love it; some people don't. But I'm glad I had the experience (for myself and the kids).
Khlong Toei - one of Bangkok's largest slums.
A walk inside one of Bangkok’s largest slums.
As we walk past I can't help but hold my breath. I want to cover my nose and run. But don't want to be rude. We are walking past the rubbish dump, an area between houses, centimetres from the footpath. Rubbish covers the ground and drums emit the smells that are making me want to run. There is also a fire smouldering, I presume to burn off the rubbish.
We turn the corner and now my nostrils are filled with the sweet and husky tones of incense. And then we pass an area where locals are cooking - homely fragrance filters the air. People look up and smile, saying 'thank you' or 'hello'. They look so happy to see us.
We are being shown through Khlong Toei, one of Bangkok's largest slums. Prateep, who's the founder of Duang Prateep Foundation, has set up a kindergarten along with a program for elderly and disabled here. It is among much other support the Foundation offers for slum dwellers. Prateep herself was a slum dweller in the 60s but now, after setting up Duang Prateep Foundation 38 years ago, has over 20 projects through Thailand helping the disadvantaged.
Khlong Toei slum is built on a swamp, so we need to watch where we walk. Under some houses, we can see fish swimming around. In other areas, we need to be careful our foot doesn't get soaked in sloshy waste water (I don't even want to know what it was).
I peer in windows as we walk past - it's hard not to, the houses border the path which is just wide enough for a scooter to zoom down. People are sleeping. Others are making food or sewing. The homes are very small and simple. I see a flat screen TV in a few houses. We comment that the house must be the CEO or Manager of the slum. But how would we know?
Prateep and her helpers show us homes they have rebuilt. All painted green. The inhabitants are very proud of their new residence. Which appears to be just one room sometimes, about 4 metres square.
And I say I have a humble home (of 3 bedrooms and backyard)? Hmm, makes me think. This slum is right in the middle of Bangkok, with fancy five-star hotels nearby. I'm very grateful to be on the other side, to be invited in to see how the less fortunate live. Respect and gratitude.
Songkran - Thailand's water festival.
Have you heard of Songkran? It’s a great way of keeping cool, having childish fun and mixing with locals.
What is Songkran?
Well, there is a lot of water involved and don't go to Bangkok (or perhaps many areas in Thailand) if you want to stay dry during this time - that's what I know!
In 2019 it was celebrated 13-15th April, and I was lucky enough to land in Bangkok during this time.
Officially, Songkran is a celebration of the Thai New Year's national holiday.
The night I arrive, I'm not sure what I'm walking into. I wander out of the hotel, getting a warning from a soaked guest, to be prepared to get wet. I grab a beer in a bar nearby and watch from a safe distance. I see grown men with huge grins on their faces. I see people squirting random people then running, like kids again. Staff in bars have hoses or buckets to throw over people who walk by. Cheeky and fun. I love it. I want part of it.
Next day, I buy myself a water gun and head to Silom - where there is a huge street party dedicated to Songkran and being cheeky with water. We are all here for one reason - to get wet while having FUN! And do I ever. The grin on my face never leaves. I scream with laughter. But then quickly close my mouth because when I turn from one squirt I'm turning into another squirt. All I can do is look down. And then shoot back.
My gun is ok but I'm now realising size does matter. I should have gone the biggest one, as all the boys did. My gun can only push water out several metres, but it also means I conserve water. Not that water is a problem here. Locals are set up every metre or so selling water refills out of big buckets - often filled with ice. And that's the other surprise - sometimes we are getting wet with warm water, sometimes with icy cold water. Even more screams.
Don't come here and worry about the "non-bottled water on your face" safety warning. Come here with the "I only live once, and today I'm going to have fun" attitude. You will get just that. I love being a kid again for a day... laughing, being silly, screaming, having fun with strangers.
