Khao Lak... a quiet alternative to Phuket.

For the longest time (since I was there in 2012), I thought I didn’t like the Phuket area of Thailand. The crowded beaches and tourist-heavy areas never appealed to me. However, my recent trip to Khao Lak proved me wrong. Nestled on the Andaman Sea, just over an hour’s drive north of Phuket International Airport, Khao Lak is a peaceful haven that offered me the perfect blend of reflection and adventure. Two places that changed my mind: the Tsunami Memorial on the beach (and the massages right next to it) and staying at Pakarang Surf Beach.

A Tribute to Resilience: The Tsunami Memorial

Khao Lak's beautiful coastline holds a sobering history. On December 26, 2004, the region was one of the hardest hit by the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami. The natural disaster left an indelible mark on the area and its people. Today, visitors can pay their respects at the Tsunami Memorial on the beach, a poignant tribute to those who lost their lives.

The memorial features a police boat, Boat 813, that was washed over a kilometre inland by the force of the tsunami waves. This boat has been preserved as a stark reminder of nature's power and the resilience of the human spirit. Walking around the memorial, I felt a profound respect for the community’s strength and their ability to rebuild from such tragedy. There’s something very sobering about hearing the sound of waves crashing just metres away as I look at all the names on the wall of people who lost their lives.

Side Note: The massage huts right next to the memorial are perfect for a pre-visit. I had one of the best massages this visit here.

Riding the Waves: Pakarang Surf Beach

Pakarang Surf Beach provided the salty Vitamin Sea adventure I had been craving. This beach is a favourite among local surfers. Another reason I love it - the local feel. Windy sand paths between the trees that border the beach, a river you have to wade (as tide comes in) to get to the beach, local fishermen that leave their nets and baskets on the beach, local surfers having beers at Memories each night… it all makes me feel like I’m in the right spot.

The surf season in Khao Lak typically runs from April to November, so I was unsure I’d get waves. I did - they were small. But I got my daily salty surf fix. I hired a board each day at the laid back Memories Beach Bar, and only on the last day I was bitten by a jellyfish. The signs had been up for days at the resort, and nobody seemed to care. And to be honest, I hadn’t paid any attention either. I was bitten when I first got in, but didn’t know what the sting was about, so kept surfing, splashing water and holding it to stop the sting. It was only when I got out of the water that the sting intensified. It stayed with me until I was on the plane, half way home to Adelaide, that evening. Ouch.

If you love the local, surfy vibe, then I’d recommend you go to Pakarang, but slightly later - for bigger and more waves. Staying at Apsara Beachfront Resort was the perfect spot, being able to check for waves from my window or from the beachfront pool lounger.

I went to Khao Lak thinking I didn’t like the Phuket area, but I left with a new appreciation for this part of Thailand. The poignant and reflective atmosphere of the Tsunami Memorial and the adventurous yet relaxed vibe of Pakarang Surf Beach completely changed my perspective. If, like me, you’ve been hesitant about visiting Phuket, consider taking a trip to Khao Lak. It’s a testament to the beauty and resilience of nature and humanity, and it promises an enriching and unforgettable experience.

Wave House Surf Camp, Bali - time for me to improve!

When you love something and want to get better at something - what do you do? Practice, practice, practice. And then what happens? You get better!

I've been surfing for a few years now but not progressing in my ability. I know that daily practice is what benefits the most, but I have only been going out sporadically. Sometimes three times a week, most times once every week or three. I was getting frustrated, so I decided to carve out the time to make improvement happen.

Bali flights were going cheap so suddenly I was logging in and hitting 'purchase'. Then came the task of finding somewhere to stay. I looked at hotels, AirBnB's and surf camps. I decided a surf camp would be best because, heck, how many times was I going to get out and surf a new break on my own? I knew... not many.

Wave House stood out as a great place because of it's location to the beach (a 3-minute walk away), Seminyak (with the salsa places I was keen to check out), the beautiful grounds and being inclusive of surf lessons each day. I've been to a few surf camps around Bali so knew that I'd be surrounded by like-minded people that were chilled but exciting. What I didn't know was that I would be one of the only native speaking English guests there! That doesn't happen often.

Other guests were mainly Russian, but thankfully, their English is fantastic. We chatted at breakfast and on the surf trips, but other than that, I was normally by the pool listening to Gabrielle Bernstein's 'The Universe Has Your Back', journalling or taking trip notes. The camp was so quiet, I often wondered if I was the only one there. However, I knew otherwise, that there were quite a few guests tucked away in their rooms working. It made me smile - knowing that people are here living their life the way they want. Combining their passion for surf, travel and work. Now, that's my type of person.

Surf lessons were at different surf breaks, depending on tide, wind and swell. It was 'off' season for surf in Bali but we found some great waves and clean (as in wind, definitely not always clean water) conditions. We surfed Old Mans, Padma and Kedungu - all located within a 30-minute drive of camp. We surfed with meet up times from 5.30am to 11 am. Small groups, one instructor and a couple of guides. It worked really well. Guests are split up into ability from beginner upwards. I was in Intermediate 4 and it worked well with everyone being a similar ability. We got feedback in the water and when we got tired, our guides helped push us onto the waves. How's that for pampering! Seriously, the instructors and guides at Wave House are the friendliest and most helpful I've experienced in Bali.

After our surf lesson, unpacking the boards and grabbing food (if it was an early surf) we met in the yoga pavilion for the second part of our lesson. Photo feedback. Eek! This scared me the first time. I hate seeing photos of myself - and I've seen myself surfing before. I described it as 'taking a poo while holding my nose from all stink'. Thankfully, I'm not 'that' bad anymore so seeing myself wasn't too bad. And the feedback was helpful. Picking up on things like hip rotation, pop up technique and working the wave.

Other bonuses of staying at Wave House? Surf skills lesson in the pool, a training area to practice, a cute resident cat and the occasional visit by the most gorgeous little pup (owned by the Aussie surf instructor). Staff are also super helpful - getting me about on the Gojek service (think Uber for mopeds), organising massages and being there for a chat.

So, after five days... would I do it again? Heck yeah. I relaxed, met some awesome people and learnt new surf skills. I conquered my fear of lefts and overcome trauma I had from previous experience at Old Mans. Growth all around. While having fun. The best surf camp I have stayed at yet.

Check it out at https://wavehousebali.com/surfcamp/

Surfergirls hit Crescent Head...

It’s on day three that I realise what I’m doing. I’m on a surf trip with a bunch of girls. We have taken over the town (by default of large group of 8 foreigners) of Crescent Head and are now meeting the local surfers and regular surfer boy groups. 

We are surfing at Big Hill, the best wave we could find in a time of little to no swell. And it seems everyone else is also. There is a big group out on the water, about 25. And the break is only a few metres wide. It’s like playing dodgeball, surfer gets the wave, and we all lean and swerve to not hit each other like pebbles rolling down a hill. I'm not used to the crowd; it’s scary, but it’s also fun. I hope I don’t get in anyone's way. And I hope I get some good waves. 

We spend two hours or more in the water before the waves drop. People have gone, people have come, and more people have left again. But we are still here. It’s like a mission. We are here for surf, and we don’t want to give up. It doesn’t matter the wait or the wave height. We just want waves. Usually, there is swell at this time of year (August), but we have a feeling the blood moon has mucked with the oceans and swell. Locals have told us there has been no swell for the last few weeks. Very odd for here. 

We search for waves on many breaks. We wander through the bush. We look with longing over cliff tops. We even surf the shark waters (unknowingly) for a wave. Typically early morning we find our wave. And I freeze for it. One frosty morning I lose feeling in my heels and can't stand on my board.

When we need to warm up, we head back to "camp". Our house at Crescent Head. We cook eggs on toast then head to the cafe for coffee. Our fave being Blackfish and Green Room. Again, we build on our relationship with the locals. They see us coming - probably due to our group size, and our hoodies that state ‘Surfergirls SA’. We even have one hoon on a skateboard scooting around town. Cheryl, our leader. We are no chameleons. 

It’s a beautiful, tranquil spot (yes, even with us here). Seems to attract the over 40s crowd, but seriously, anyone chilled could come here. The houses line the hilltop, all overlooking the bay where little lines peel, great for longboarders. On a bigger day of swell, it’d be good for shortboarders too. I hear there is also a Shark Alert system in place, and the day we arrive the beacon has gone off to alert people that a shark is lingering in the area. Great idea, maybe. Or maybe it’s more a scare than anything else. We do know that they are there anyway. I guess I’d prefer to know if one (if not more that are not tagged) are hanging about where I want to surf. It keeps me out anyway. I mean, there’s no swell, but if there was, I’m not sure I’d go in. 

If Crescent Head isn’t working - which it's not - there are plenty more breaks to explore. We head south, checking out Sunsets, Big Hill and Plumer Point. We end up at Big Hill all days… it has a small break when everywhere else is not working in these conditions. One day, I count 25 in the water, all surrounding one little wave. It seems everyone is crazy to get a wave, and this is the place. Perhaps the only place in the area.  

You can also head north. We road trip up to Scotts Head for an afternoon. Another cruisy town where we spot SUP riders, little groms learning the whitewash waves and couples strolling along the beach. There’s no surf, but we keep the local coffee/takeaway shop open with coffee and juice orders. He was happy, beaming while telling us he hadn’t had a customer for over an hour. It’s common for the cafes to shut just after lunch and I’m beginning to realise why. Everyone gets their morning coffee hit then heads off - I guess after 12pm is wine time though, isn’t it?!

I caught some fun waves this week, and a nearly perfect one that I was told was ‘the wave of the week’. I was also told my face beamed after that wave. And that’s what it is all about. Catching the stoke, having fun and chilling out with friends (human or happy flipper kind). 

Fears. Ignore or lean in?

I went surfing. It wasn’t the best surf, but I really wanted to get out. I tried the day before, but it was even worse. So I was adamant. But, I didn’t last long. There were only three other people out in the ocean; I got paranoid about sharks, then felt tugs at my leg rope. I’d only been in 20 minutes.

But, when I get chilled, I get out. I guess it’s listening to my instincts (even when they are irrational). I hope by doing this, I’m telling my instincts that I value them and will listen to them. It’s so important.

There is a thing about leaning into your fear. Living just outside your comfort zone. But it’s just that - ‘just’ outside of your comfort zone. A place where you may fail, but it won’t hurt too hard. Let’s live there. We will grow, experience more, learn more, live more dreams. 

How do you live out of your comfort zone? Do you listen to your instincts?

Shimmer Festival photo fun

Check out the fun we are getting up to for Shimmer Festival! Head on over to have a look at everything. You can book workshops through the link also.

There is so much cool stuff to see and do - but don't forget to check mine out... here is some more info. :)

Rapture Surfcamp Padang Padang, Bali

The steps to Thomas Beach. Fine to come down - harder to get back up after surfing for hours. 

Wannabe surfer? Doesn't matter, this place is awesome for anyone wanting to run away to Bali and stay 'in the jungle' as taxis from Seminyak tell us. No hawkers, a handful of shops and restaurants and Roosters crowing in the morning. And guess what, not a Bintang singlet in sight!

Surfer? You are sorted. Guiding is included in the rate, and can be for a full day. I'm used to going out morning or late arvo, so this came as a surprise. No that I'm complaining. With surf breaks all around the Bukit Peninsula, Rapture made sure we went somewhere suitable. Beginners and advanced in different groups so no one gets the raw end of the deal. Padang Padang is just down the road - but as fate would have it, we never made it there to surf. Whenever I go to Bali, I seem to take big swell with me - and as a beginner, a lot of breaks were out. Big swell may have kept me out of some breaks, but looking out over Balangan I couldn't help but dream 'one day'.

One day....

The Rapture pool at night

Back at camp, non-surfers have a quiet haven to hang out at during the day. Pool to themselves, massage in the gazebo above the pool anytime, and food and drink ready to order at the bar. Well, that is until the surf groups get back. Then it's a hype of activity. People practice their duck dives in the pool, try out their balance on the Indo board and crack the Bintangs. I even give a show - losing my bikini bottoms on diving into the pool. Crimson? Not sure what colour that is.

Harder than it looks - the IndoBoard

Quietness sweeps across the resort again when the afternoon session of yoga starts. Great to stretch after your surf workout or turn it into a workout on one of your days 'off' surfing. Above the restaurant, it's serene and Abby, our instructor, is perfect. Attentive, gentle but ensuring you get the most out of the practice. I would have been in my zen if I hadn't had looked at my armpit while doing one of the stretches and seen a bush peeking back at me. Argh.

As the sun drops, everyone gets ready to head out of 'the jungle' and watch the sunset at Uluwatu. Thongs and shorts are dress-code - love the simplicity. Some girls put make-up on but most just chuck their sunnies on their head and pile in the van. Hey, did you know you can fit nine people in a squishy six seater? You get to know each other quick - and all the lumps and bumps of the car body. Don't even mention the road bumps that make you bounce - ouch.

Big swell at Uluwatu

Uluwatu cliff bars

Nights are spent around the communal table. If there is one negative of the resort, it would be the fact that you don't get a choice for dinner. It's a set menu. But hey, it fills my tummy, and it is yummy. Chatting with the other guests over Bintangs, my mind is not on the food. I love getting to know everyone from the four corners of the world. And being a surf resort, I think we all kinda gelled through our love of simple, surf, sun, party and chill. 

Rapture food

Rapture food

For night bunnies - Uluwatu is just down the road. If you don't have a bike, Rapture can organise the van to take you down, or you can walk out to the main road and flag a Bluebird taxi. Cheap cheap. After a few sneaky vodkas poolside, we decide to head out. The famous Single Fin, along with a swag of other cliff-hugging bars cling to the cliff about the sometimes huge break. There's no air-con, but with the sea breeze, who needs it. We dance the night away - well, till it closes at 1 am - then haggle for a taxi back to Rapture. I'm quite proud I get a low price which one of the guys from 'camp' said we wouldn't be able to get. It's not that I even try, I just tell the guy what we paid to get down here, and he agrees. Win win. 

Rapture outdoor bathroom

Loft room

Downstairs in the loft room

Now, to lay your head down and rest. The resort isn't a huge party place. Most people are in bed or out to a bar after dinner and casual drinks. The rooms are a nice place to retire to if you decide. Because there are three of us we book the two-story private room, which can accommodate four, but many of the other guests are in dorms. They are pretty beautiful dorms too. One day I poke my head in one and am left uttering 'wow' under my breath. Bean bags, comfy beds, space...

What more does a girl need? I'm a happy chappy here - surf, relaxed vibe, friendly people, stylish rooms, yoga and massages. Oh, and some Bintangs. When can I go back?

Waiting, over lunch, for surf at Thomas Beach

A girls trip to Bali - surf, sun, fun.

Jimbaran - early morning

Early morning at Jimbaran

My alarm went off just before 6 am. I ask myself again, 'what are you doing? It's a holiday, sleep in.' I lay in bed for a few more moments, trying to decided what to do. Then I roll over, pull on my bikini, rash vest and shorts and tip-toe out the door. I'm going surfing! 

I arrived in Bali the night before and finally got to our accommodation, Rapture Surfcamp at Padang Padang, just before midnight. Getting up before dawn wasn't ideal - but the idea of surfing was. I am nervous but excited. I'd been dreaming about this for months.

Feeling spoilt. Surf guides looking after our boards.

I meet the other surfers in my group, grab a board from the 'cupboard' and let the surf guides tie it up on the roof of the van. We then all pile in and head off on our reccie. I love seeing the countryside that was a blur of black the night before - we are far removed from the concrete city of Kuta. 

After a squizz at Padang and Thomas, we head down to Jimbaran. Swell is big which means there are clean and small waves (perhaps 2 foot) over the reef. It's the perfect intro to my Bali surf trip. I laugh at the tourists pulling suitcases along the beach, a Japanese couple prancing through the shore break while making a home video, and an older gentleman trying hard to lift weights but looking like he was swatting flies. I'm sure I also give someone a laugh or two when crashing about in the waves. But hey, I have fun. And finally, I'm catching green, unbroken waves - something that has scared me before.

Photo anyone? Photographers for each surf school and camp

I like a good reflection. And someone who says 'yes, sure, take a pic of me'. 

We surf til late morning then head back to camp. I'm buzzing. I love being out in the water and feel energised. 

The steps back up to the paddock car park from Thomas Beach

The following day we head out around 9 am. Swell is still big, and we struggle to find somewhere for beginners. We look at Padang, Thomas, Balangan, Nusa Dua 1 and Nusa Dua 2 before heading back to Thomas for lunch and wait for the high tide. Finally, we get in the waves at 2 pm and have a blast. I catch some good waves, and get slammed by some ultra good ones that I was silly enough to try for. The reef, which we had been told would not be a problem, was suddenly best mates with me.

Waiting for high tide. Waiting. Waiting. Fish and chips was yummy.

Perhaps slightly too big for newbies? But damn, it looks good.

Obviously not much to look at in that surf. Nusa Dua pea soup - rough guts swell.

I need one of these at home. Indoboard practise. 

When not surfing I laze by the pool - swimming, practicing duck dives on a board, reading and chatting to new friends (plus my friends from home). I'm sure I gave some guests another laugh too. Diving into the pool one afternoon, my bikini bottoms slipped right down. I was quick to get them back up but, embarrassing. I pop up at the other end of the pool with a squeal, spinning around to see a few smirks on faces looking my way. 

As the sun lowers, we head out to Uluwatu's Single Fin or nearby bar for a few sundowners while watching the surfers in the big swell. Who said eleven people couldn't fit in one eight seater van? 

Big swell at Uluwatu. Spot the surfer - looks like an ant. 

Single Fin from our rooftop bar. 

One night, on a whim, after everyone else had gone out, my friend and I decide to meet them at Single Fin - touted as 'the place' to go on the Bukit. Arriving, I'm intrigued by the sight of a multi-level nightclub jam packed with (mainly) young tourists wanting to pick up. I haven't been in this environment for a long time - being wife and mum to two children. It doesn't keep me still for long, though. Two songs in, and I'm dancing away. We then find some others from camp and join jiggy-bopping forces. Shame it shuts at 1 am and we only arrive about 11.30pm. The bartender laughed at me when I asked if there was anywhere else to go. 

Next morning, I get to have a look at the photos taken while we were out surfing. I have never laughed so hard at myself! There is a large stack of images of me - and nearly all of them have me in a pose that looks like I'm hovering over a toilet while holding my nose. I should get copies of them and make a 'funny board' for when I need a pick me up. 

It'd also make an awesome reminder of surf, sun and fun at Rapture Surfcamps Padang.

Refreshments. 

Canggu Bali - and why I love it

Who has been to Bali? I'm not sure of the statistics, but a quick google tells me that in 2014 over 600,000 Aussies touched down on the Island of the Gods. 

I've been to Bali four times over 13 years. Once when I was 12 years old, and we walked the rice paddy-lined street between Legian and Kuta. Another for our honeymoon, staying in Tuban. The next with friends, staying in a Seminyak villa, Ubud and Sanur with our nearly one-year-old daughter. And the last time, with our two children, staying at a surf resort in Canggu, Menjangan National Park and Legian. We also took a look at Medewi on the way up to Menjangan and like the look of that area.

Of all those places, Canggu has been my favourite. I see Canggu as the expat area where you have activity but nothing like the crazy business of Seminyak and Legian, just a few minutes away. We stayed inland, but with free bicycle hire, we were easily able to get to all the nearby beaches (some which were deserted on our visit bar fisherman's boats and huts), Echo Beach cafes, and peddle our way around the winding roads through rice paddies. 

The vibe at Echo Beach is chilled and relaxed. A few restaurants and bars line the beachfront, with a few beanbags brought out for sunset drinks on the beach. I only ever saw the one hawker there, who came and asked, but then left as quickly as he appeared if we didn't want company. Sometimes we had a chat with him. I can imagine living here, and coming down here in the afternoons - surfing and having a sunset beer.

The road down to the beach is dotted with shops, warungs and restaurants. But there is still a lot of space between each, rice paddies reaching up towards to road. There are cars, taxis and motorbikes, but with a steady mind, I felt safe enough to cycle around on a loan bike. It is nowhere near as busy as the main tourist area.

Batu Bolong (Canggu) beach is even quieter still. In the mornings, after our morning surf, we would head to a warung for a coconut water. A few tables and the shack are behind the beach carpark, with a free cold outdoor shower for patrons. Great for washing the sand off after being crashed around in the waves. There is a surfboard rental place, temple and not much else. Away from the beachfront a few metres is the appropriately named Old Mans. We stopped here for a Bintang, watching expats working, checking out surf and arriving with friends on mopeds. Again, I thought aloud how great a lifestyle this looks - I could live here. 

After messing around in white wash and small waves, our surf group asked to go to better waves. A short walk around the front of the temple took us to Old Mans surf break. As a newbie surfer in 6-8 foot (Bali standard) waves, it was scary. I'm thankful I only lost one fin in the shore break and walked out just a bit shaky - not hurt. But next time I will be pushier with my surf guide and say I'm not confident going out in waves that big.

Canggu does it for me - surf, relaxed, beautiful beaches, close to everything but quieter. Kuta, in Lombok also gives me this feeling, but that's a different story. 

Where is your favourite Bali location?

Kuta Lombok or Kuta Bali?

'We are going to Kuta.' 'Oh, that's crazy and busy, and so touristy,' they reply. 

'No, Kuta in Lombok. I think it will be a bit different. People say it reminds them of Bali ten years ago.' 

They reply 'Oh, I've never heard of it. Where is that?'

Each morning we wake and do yoga. A purpose-built deck on the beach means we look out to a calm bay, complete with bobbing fishing boats and lone SUP'er heading out to the break out the back. The beach is quiet (all except one morning when conference delegates thought loud dance music would be appropriate to blast out of speakers at 7 am) except for the thunder of waves crashing beyond the bay. Swell is big. I've never been able to do yoga for more than 45 minutes, but these one and half hour sessions are easy. 

We hire a moped for $10 a day and go scootering. I wouldn't dream of doing this in Bali, but the roads look calm and safe here - as long as you keep an eye out for potholes. A tour down the main street takes about one minute. We slow down for buffalo, dogs sniffing and wandering old men. There are a few surfers chatting and locals laze in the shade. Children play in the puddles while one old man has a quick wash roadside. 

The restaurants and shops are deserted. And there is no 'lady, come here, see this' or 'Psst, you want? Just look.' Shop owners may smile, throw something your way, but don't persist if I decline.

There are a couple of side roads - most leading out of town. They are lined with stores, surf schools, guest houses and more restaurants. But all are empty on our visit out of season in February. 

And that's how it stays for the rest of the trip. Near-deserted. Each night the restaurants and beachside pop-up bars would take it in turns to entertain the tourists that are staying around Kuta. One bar per night would be 'the place'. 

Near-deserted white sand beaches line the southern coast around Kuta. They look like the beaches I dream of - lush vegetation bordering the white sand that leads to water that is clear and turquoise colour. Sometimes we find a little rubbish floating about, but nowhere near the amount we swim through in Bali. 

After discovering beaches for two days my moped we decide to hire a guide, boat, and boards and head out for a surf at Gerupuk. The break we go to is called Insides, in the middle of a bay this break comes from seemingly nowhere. 

The surf guides family being amused by Ben in his home.

It must be one of the easiest surf sessions I have had in my life. I catch a long wave, and then instead of an arm breaking battle to get out the back again, I have a quick and gentle paddle just outside the reef break. I'm back in the lineup minutes later. I catch waves that reform with no concern for the hard paddle that normally goes with it. The locals have fun with us, showing us tricks that keep them entertained on these smaller waves.

Back at the Novotel, for now, the only resort on the beachfront, we are met with hawkers. But instead of sell, sell, sell, they try the sell, then sit and chat. Their children are playful and muck around with us. I try and teach them sand-angels. We book our driver to Sengiggi through one of the ladies - her husband. It's a nice end to the day after adventuring, chatting with our new 'friends'.

A 25-minute flight to Lombok. Is it worth it? You bet. If you want to see somewhere different, less touristy (but not too off the beaten track), stunning white sand beaches, and good surf - head to Kuta in Lombok. Nearly Bali - but better.

Thoughts become actions, actions become reality.

I often look up to other people, see what they achieve and wish I could have or be like them. Negative thoughts enter 'I'm not good enough' or 'I don't have time for that'. Or even worse, 'people will laugh and talk about me'. It causes procrastination.

Lately, I have come across a few sayings I want to be my mantras.

'If they can do it, so can I.'
'People are too busy worrying about what they look like to worry about what you are doing.'

What is your mantra?