Port Vila, Vanuatu

Oh, these guys know what they are doing! To get off the ship, passengers have to walk through a maze of markets. It's the only way off. Smart. And then the touts are at the end with all sorts of offers from water taxis, car and driver hire, tours...

We hire a car and driver for $100 and go out to Blue Lagoon, the local cascades called Rarru and then back to Port Vila for some coffee and (attempted) internet action.

It's fun playing Tarzan and flying off ropes into the water at Blue Lagoon. It would be a relaxing place to hang out for longer - with gardens surrounding the lagoon.

Then we hide behind tumbling water at Rarru Cascades and jump off the top edge into the dark depths. We are careful where we jump in - there are a lot of rocks close to the surface, and you have to know where the 'holes' are. Locals are here to keep us in the right area.

Port Vila has cheap duty free - so we find out later. All we do in the city is have coffee and attempt to connect to wifi. We end up giving up - and appreciating the fact that we can't connect. Let's get back to holiday mode!

Mystery Island, Vanuatu

The people of Aneityum (the nearby island) won't live on Inyeug Island (known as Mystery Island by tourists) because they believe it's haunted by spirits. All infrastructure here is for tourists - toilet block, market/bar/massage huts and a mini airport with a grass runway.

Inyeug means Small Island in a local language - and it's correct. 1.5km square, Mystery Island is easy and fun to walk around. I go for a wander, trying to find my little slice of solitude. But can't. The one path around the island is tranquil, but there is only so much island over 2000 people can scatter over. Most people head to the southern side where there are sun chairs, bar and food. I head the opposite way.

The girls get their hair braided, Ashton shops his way through the market, we watch the local men doing dance performances (while their kids watch on), and then I relax on the beach.

Lifou Island, New Caledonia

Lifou Island is the largest, most populous and most important island of the Loyalty Islands (via Wikipedia). We arrive and are greeted by a small village - and many dogs. Wandering the road up the hill, we then turn left and head down the dirt road to Jinek Bay.

The reef here is well preserved, and snorkelling is limited to 200 people each day. We presume we can't get in because we haven't booked. But we are lucky. We pay the local $10 each and get in the cool water. It is a highlight; I haven't snorkelled much, so it's fun skimming over reef watching lots of varied, colourful fish dart around me. I last well over 30 minutes before the cold water gets me shivering — the best snorkelling of our cruise.

Isle of Pines, New Caledonia

Now, everyone has told me this is the most beautiful place. Magical and intoxicating. And it is gorgeous. I can imagine it would be magic if it weren't for the 2000 plus people lounging about on the two strips of beach that are Kanumera Bay and Kuto Bay.

Snorkelling around the sacred rock in Kanumera Bay is my first snorkel in many years. I start from the beach opposite and scare myself by going alone in deep water, no coral, no fish and plenty of strange underwater noises. I am informed it is excellent snorkelling so am expecting colour and fish everywhere. Instead, I find some dull colours and a few small fish. I miss the good stuff, but I'm cold, so get out and warm up in the sun.

I spot a resort over the other side of Kanumera Bay and comment it would be a great place to stay - cruise passengers can't access their beach so they can see all the action from reasonable quietness and solitude still.

After the kids get their snorkelling fix, we head back to Kuto Bay, just a few minutes walk through tall trees. A coconut falls from a tree. The kids play in the clear waters. And I enjoy the sun a little more — a lovely place to relax for the day.

Noumea, New Caledonia

Nouméa is the capital of the South Pacific archipelago and overseas French territory New Caledonia. Wikipedia says it's known for beaches and its blend of French and native Kanak influences. Many people I spoke to before going saw it as nothing special and not worth visiting.

So I was very keen to see for myself.

We got on the hop on hop off bus and went around the coast, stopping at the markets where they sold a mix of local products and the usual 'Made in China' souvenirs. Every place we go to accepts Australian dollars but prices are in Pacific Franc.

Deciding not to do a tour, we head for the beach. We stop at Baie de Citrons for a swim. It's a shell beach with a swimming pontoon the kids had fun jumping off and swimming around. Warning though - the water is 'fresh' in July. I only dipped my toes in.

My thoughts after just four hours here?

It's touristy.

It's expensive.

It's pretty for a capital.