Lifou Island, New Caledonia

Lifou Island is the largest, most populous and most important island of the Loyalty Islands (via Wikipedia). We arrive and are greeted by a small village - and many dogs. Wandering the road up the hill, we then turn left and head down the dirt road to Jinek Bay.

The reef here is well preserved, and snorkelling is limited to 200 people each day. We presume we can't get in because we haven't booked. But we are lucky. We pay the local $10 each and get in the cool water. It is a highlight; I haven't snorkelled much, so it's fun skimming over reef watching lots of varied, colourful fish dart around me. I last well over 30 minutes before the cold water gets me shivering — the best snorkelling of our cruise.

Isle of Pines, New Caledonia

Now, everyone has told me this is the most beautiful place. Magical and intoxicating. And it is gorgeous. I can imagine it would be magic if it weren't for the 2000 plus people lounging about on the two strips of beach that are Kanumera Bay and Kuto Bay.

Snorkelling around the sacred rock in Kanumera Bay is my first snorkel in many years. I start from the beach opposite and scare myself by going alone in deep water, no coral, no fish and plenty of strange underwater noises. I am informed it is excellent snorkelling so am expecting colour and fish everywhere. Instead, I find some dull colours and a few small fish. I miss the good stuff, but I'm cold, so get out and warm up in the sun.

I spot a resort over the other side of Kanumera Bay and comment it would be a great place to stay - cruise passengers can't access their beach so they can see all the action from reasonable quietness and solitude still.

After the kids get their snorkelling fix, we head back to Kuto Bay, just a few minutes walk through tall trees. A coconut falls from a tree. The kids play in the clear waters. And I enjoy the sun a little more — a lovely place to relax for the day.

Noumea, New Caledonia

Nouméa is the capital of the South Pacific archipelago and overseas French territory New Caledonia. Wikipedia says it's known for beaches and its blend of French and native Kanak influences. Many people I spoke to before going saw it as nothing special and not worth visiting.

So I was very keen to see for myself.

We got on the hop on hop off bus and went around the coast, stopping at the markets where they sold a mix of local products and the usual 'Made in China' souvenirs. Every place we go to accepts Australian dollars but prices are in Pacific Franc.

Deciding not to do a tour, we head for the beach. We stop at Baie de Citrons for a swim. It's a shell beach with a swimming pontoon the kids had fun jumping off and swimming around. Warning though - the water is 'fresh' in July. I only dipped my toes in.

My thoughts after just four hours here?

It's touristy.

It's expensive.

It's pretty for a capital.