For the longest time (since I was there in 2012), I thought I didn’t like the Phuket area of Thailand. The crowded beaches and tourist-heavy areas never appealed to me. However, my recent trip to Khao Lak proved me wrong. Nestled on the Andaman Sea, just over an hour’s drive north of Phuket International Airport, Khao Lak is a peaceful haven that offered me the perfect blend of reflection and adventure. Two places that changed my mind: the Tsunami Memorial on the beach (and the massages right next to it) and staying at Pakarang Surf Beach.

A Tribute to Resilience: The Tsunami Memorial

Khao Lak's beautiful coastline holds a sobering history. On December 26, 2004, the region was one of the hardest hit by the devastating Indian Ocean tsunami. The natural disaster left an indelible mark on the area and its people. Today, visitors can pay their respects at the Tsunami Memorial on the beach, a poignant tribute to those who lost their lives.

The memorial features a police boat, Boat 813, that was washed over a kilometre inland by the force of the tsunami waves. This boat has been preserved as a stark reminder of nature's power and the resilience of the human spirit. Walking around the memorial, I felt a profound respect for the community’s strength and their ability to rebuild from such tragedy. There’s something very sobering about hearing the sound of waves crashing just metres away as I look at all the names on the wall of people who lost their lives.

Side Note: The massage huts right next to the memorial are perfect for a pre-visit. I had one of the best massages this visit here.

Riding the Waves: Pakarang Surf Beach

Pakarang Surf Beach provided the salty Vitamin Sea adventure I had been craving. This beach is a favourite among local surfers. Another reason I love it - the local feel. Windy sand paths between the trees that border the beach, a river you have to wade (as tide comes in) to get to the beach, local fishermen that leave their nets and baskets on the beach, local surfers having beers at Memories each night… it all makes me feel like I’m in the right spot.

The surf season in Khao Lak typically runs from April to November, so I was unsure I’d get waves. I did - they were small. But I got my daily salty surf fix. I hired a board each day at the laid back Memories Beach Bar, and only on the last day I was bitten by a jellyfish. The signs had been up for days at the resort, and nobody seemed to care. And to be honest, I hadn’t paid any attention either. I was bitten when I first got in, but didn’t know what the sting was about, so kept surfing, splashing water and holding it to stop the sting. It was only when I got out of the water that the sting intensified. It stayed with me until I was on the plane, half way home to Adelaide, that evening. Ouch.

If you love the local, surfy vibe, then I’d recommend you go to Pakarang, but slightly later - for bigger and more waves. Staying at Apsara Beachfront Resort was the perfect spot, being able to check for waves from my window or from the beachfront pool lounger.

I went to Khao Lak thinking I didn’t like the Phuket area, but I left with a new appreciation for this part of Thailand. The poignant and reflective atmosphere of the Tsunami Memorial and the adventurous yet relaxed vibe of Pakarang Surf Beach completely changed my perspective. If, like me, you’ve been hesitant about visiting Phuket, consider taking a trip to Khao Lak. It’s a testament to the beauty and resilience of nature and humanity, and it promises an enriching and unforgettable experience.